
Yurok
Tribe caught in the middle of legal battle
Living
where the road ends and the struggle begins
Associated
Press
December
31, 2006
AP photos/Rich Pedroncelli
- Many of the tribe’s residents live in such rural areas that they
must depend on generators and solar energy for power.
Yurok
Tribe member Ralph Lemon, left, places a hose in a drum of diesel
fuel to be pumped into a newly installed fuel tank, right, at his
home near Weitchpec,
Calif. The tank, installed by David Frick, right, who works for the
tribes housing department, will provide diesel for Lemon's power
generator, his home's only source of power.
Along California’s rugged northwest coast, a freshly paved highway
exit marked ‘‘Bald Hills Road’’ is for most nothing more
than the entrance to Lady Bird Johnson Grove and Redwood National
Park.
For the Yurok, the state’s largest and perhaps poorest American
Indian tribe, it’s where the road home, and the Yuroks’
struggles, begin.
Past the park, Bald Hills quickly narrows to a deadly, one-lane
logging path and snakes high into the Pacific coastal range near
Weitchpec, Calif. Around blind corners and frequent cliffs, charred
remains of Jeeps and rusted cars litter the ditches of a
40-mile-long washboard welcome mat.
It is a clan the state, if not time itself, has left behind.
For years, the Yurok have asked California lawmakers for permission
to operate slot machines to begin making the money they say could
help pull the poorest of their 5,000 out of grinding poverty. Their
casino would be so remote it would seem few might visit, but the
tribe estimates it could bring in more than $1 million a year, as
much as doubling its discretionary budget in bad years and allowing
the tribe to begin saving money to pave, or at least regularly
grade, roads such as Bald
Hills.
Here, surrounded by steep hills and stripped redwood forests,
hundreds of Yuroks survive dug into the remote, muddy banks of the
Klamath River. Most live without electricity or clean running water
in clusters of dilapidated trailers supplied after a flood when
Lyndon B. Johnson was president.
Children still learn in one-room schools. Wood fires warm homes. And
a tribe that once thrived off salmon grapples with a river with few
fish. The tribe’s only jobs come from federal grants, or in
helping timber companies take the very trees Yuroks believe to be
their own.
The way the Yuroks’ gambling efforts have been thwarted for years,
both through bureaucratic slip-ups and in the crossfire of larger
political feuds in the state Capitol, is the story of a tribe beset
by misfortunes as confounding as any in the state.
Whether the Yurok can begin to escape their troubled past remains
entirely unclear, but the issue is likely
to come up again when the Legislature reconvenes Jan. 3.
An anomaly
In the short decade since voters approved gambling on Indian land,
the Yurok tribe has morphed from a poster child for needy tribes to
an anomaly.
| The
Yurok Tribe operated Pem-Mey Fuel Mart, seen in Klamath,
Calif. The Yuroks hope to persuade the state
Legislature to pass a pending compact in January to
allow them to install 99 slot machines at the fuel mart to
provide an additional income source to the tribe. |
Many tribes have become so rich from mega-casinos erected from Palm
Springs to the Sacramento suburbs that the disparity between them and
those such as the Yurok is now staggering. Nearly 50 tribes raked in a
combined $13 billion from gambling in 2004, according to the
California Attorney General’s office, and their casino profits
continue to rise.
By comparison, counting every cent of its federal grants, timber
sales and $1.1 million from a state fund that shares casino revenues
between rich tribes and poor ones, the Yurok spent $12 million last
year. That’s less than what one of the richest, the Agua Caliente
Band of Mission Indians near Palm Springs, is spending to appoint
rooms in its new resort hotel with granite counter tops, whirlpool
baths, plasma-screen TVs and other luxuries.
Widening the economic gap between the tribes, rich ones also spend
tens of millions on political contributions in the state capital
supporting laws limiting competition and increasing their profits.
Sometimes that means big-game tribes work to subvert small tribes’
efforts to get into the business.
At the same time, antigambling forces and labor unions have stepped
up efforts in Sacramento to block expansion of Indian casinos they
say have already far outstripped
— even perverted — what voters intended, and left thousands of
workers in the state without protections commonly afforded in
casinos from Las Vegas to Atlantic City.
Caught in the middle are tribes such as the Yurok.
‘‘Gaming can do a lot of good for tribes, and for the Yurok it
could be a small part of a larger solution needed to help
them,’’ said former state Sen. Wesley Chesbro, D-Arcata, who
unsuccessfully lobbied for years for the Yurok compact until he was
termed out in the fall. ‘‘Compounding their trouble, however,
has been the increased efforts of big-game tribes to squash those
who are not yet gaming. Yurok stands out as the most disturbing
example of that.’’
The Yuroks’ most recent attempt to win rights to a modest 99 slot
machines was cut short in the fall when a compact they signed with
Gov. Arnold Schwarzenegger was held hostage in a political showdown
between labor and large gaming tribes over 20,000
new slot machines and bigger casinos, mostly to be built in Southern
California.
In the delicate words of the Yuroks’ deputy executive director,
Reweti Wiki, the tribe’s journey is analogous to the childhood
misadventure story of “Lemony Snicket.” ‘‘It’s been a
series of unfortunate events,’’ he said, forcing a smile through
clenched teeth.
Others have a harder time hiding their disgust.
After four hours trekking through a remote swath of the reservation,
Frankie Myers, the tribe’s planning director and budding
cultural leader, blurts out his true feelings.
‘‘We got screwed, and we continue getting screwed. I think
that’s the underlying issue in everyone’s psyche,’’ said
Myers.
Other problems facing the tribe, such as a diabetes epidemic,
rampant methamphetamine abuse and a lack of higher education, also
are rooted in years of poverty and neglect and won’t be easily
solved, even if the tribe is allowed to offer gaming.
‘Downriver’
To hear tribal members tell it, their name sums up their plight. In
the Yurok language, the tribe’s name means ‘‘downriver.’’
And there’s perhaps no better word for the way the Yurok have been
pushed down by the currents of power and politics over hundreds of
years.
Yuroks grow up reciting dates such as 1855, 1891 and 1988 as the
mile markers of a past perceived as filled with injustice. The years
coincide with executive orders lumping the Yurok on a reservation
with the neighboring Hoopas, letting Hoopas reap a majority of
timber profits; and a failed legal battle that has kept $90 million
in tribal money still locked away in a federal trust.
Still, the Yurok are not totally without amenities in nearby Klamath
— an hour’s drive back over Bald Hills along U.S. Highway 101,
and closer to where four out of five tribal members eke out livings
in Eureka and Crescent City.
There, the tribe boasts a neatly landscaped new $3 million
headquarters complete with leatherseated council chambers, a
community recreation room, a kitchen and computer
lab that was funded with a federal grant.
Across the street is Pem-Mey Fuel Mart, the tribe’s commercial
enterprise. The Yurok took out a $3 million loan two years ago to
open it, the only gas station within 30 miles. It’s outfitted with
a Subway sandwich shop and espresso bar, yet Wiki and others hint
that the business isn’t doing well. They say slot machines may be
needed to help pay off the loan and keep it profitable.
If the tribe’s gambling compact were approved, the Yurok could
build a back room in the gas station for 20 slot machines.
Some tribal leaders dream that would only be the beginning. They
envision a 3-story hotel and casino with the 99 slots and card games
the tribe would be allowed under its most recent stalled compact.
Years of waiting, however, has left Yurok Councilman Richard Myers
skeptical.
‘‘It will never bring much money. We will not be handing out
checks; not like other tribes,’’ he said. ‘‘What it will do
is put food on someone’s table. That is a truth.’’
Myers said the compact remains a sore spot. ‘‘Look at us, it’s
2006, and we are one of the last places to be electrified.’’
Waiting for a break
To move forward, the Yurok will have to catch a break in Sacramento.
In 1998, when the state began handing out compacts, the Yuroks’
paperwork for a casino was lost in the shuffle when it was faxed to
the wrong Capitol office. The tribe then struck a deal with Gov.
Gray Davis for 350 slots, but he was recalled before it could be
signed.
Last August, a coalition of labor, horse racing and antigambling
interests upended all nine compacts pending in the Legislature, even
as those opposed to the cumulative casino expansion said they had no
problem with the smaller Yurok deal, which is unlikely to raise
labor or other issues.
Whether the tribe can now muster enough support, or pity, for a vote
separate from the controversy of the big-game tribes is unclear.
‘‘We all feel really sorry for Yurok. The feeling among so many
is that Yurok should happen; it’s so different than the
others,’’ said Elsa Ortiz, legislative liaison for Indian
Affairs in Senate President Pro Tem Don Perata’s office.
‘‘Honestly, I don’t know how things will work out for
Yurok.’’
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