Abbot and Williamson's Report on the 1855 Expedition to the Klamath Basin

ACCORDING TO ACTS OF CONGRESS OF MARC 3, 1853, MAY 31, 1854 , AND AUGUST 5, 1854

REPORT BY LIEUTENANT HENRY L. ABBOTT, CORPS OF TOPORAPHICAL ENGINEERS, UPON THE ROUTES IN OREGON AND CALIFORNIA EXPLORED BY PARTIES UNDER THE COMMAND OF LIEUTENANT R. S. WILLIAMSON, CORPS OF TOPOGRAOHICAL ENGINEERS, IN 1855.

EXPLORATION AND SURVEYS FOR A RAILROAD ROUTE FROM THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER TO THE PACIFIC OCEAN ,

Sir: In obedience to instructions from the War Department, I have the honor to submit the accompanying report of the exploration and survey in California and Oregon , conducted by Lieutenant R. S. Williamson, United States Topographical Engineers, in 1855. The preparation of the report was devolved upon me, in consequence of the severe and protracted illness of Lieutenant Williamson; and it is die to myself to state that I have performed the duty with extreme reluctance, partly because it was not originally designed for me by the Department, and partly because it properly belongs to the officer by whose forethought and professional ability the expedition has been brought to a successful termination.

Wishing to convey Lieutenant Williamson’s ideas, as far as they are known to me, I have been guided by his recorded field notes, and by his opinions expressed to me in conversation, in preparing the portion of the report which relates to regions traversed by him. During a part of the field work I was entrusted with a separate party, with instructions to prepare a written report of the results of my examinations. For any opinion given in this portion of the report he, of course, is not responsible.

At the completion of the survey for a railroad route from the Sacramento valley to the Columbia river , the season was so far advanced and the animals were in so jaded condition, that Lieutenant Williamson considered it impracticable to make any examination of the Sierra Nevada until the ensuing spring. Before that time, orders were received from the War Department, directing him to return at once to Washington to prepare the maps, profiles, and reports of the exploration already made. The second survey contemplated in his original instructions was consequently omitted.

At Lieutenant Williamson’s request, I have prepared a full statement of the method used in deducing altitudes from the barometric observations. For unpublished and very valuable information on this subject, I am indebted to Captain A. W. Whipple, United States Topographical Engineers.

I should do injustice to Lieutenant Williamson, if I did not express his high appreciation of the energy and ability with which the officers of the escort, and the civilian assistants, labored to advance the objects of the exploration.

Of those who accompanied me when detached from the main command, I feel at liberty to speak in less general terms. Lieutenant Cook, who was the only officer with me, officially and personally contributed, in a high degree, to the success and to the harmony of the expedition. Mr. Fillebrown and Mr. Young, although suffering from severe attacks of intermittent fever, and deprived of the services of a physician, willingly continued with the party, and discharged their accustomed duties with energy and accuracy. The masterly sketches of views upon the route, and the characteristic style of the topography upon the accompanying maps, testify to the professional skill of Mr. Young. Mr. Anderson, who was my only scientific assistant in some of the most difficult and perplexing portions of the survey, aided me in every way in his power. To him, and to Mr. Fillebrown, the government is chiefly indebted for the numerous barometric observations taken upon the routes explored. Dr. Newberry was only attached to my command for a few days, as he proceeded by water from Fort Dalles to San Francisco , where he remained until the completion of the field work. While waiting in that city he zealously occupied himself in making a large and valuable zoological collection. His reports speak for themselves. The great energy which Mr. Coleman displayed in discharging the laborious duties of chief of train, is worthy of the highest praise. Had it not been for his continued and untiring exertions, many of our animals must have been lost in crossing the Cascade mountains . To the men of the topographical party generally, much commendation is due. Although deprived of the protection of an escort, and of the services of a physician, to both of which they were entitled by the terms of their agreement, they, with hardly an exception, faithfully performed their duties until the end of the survey.

(The section on the Upper Klamath Basin , i.e. Lost River , Upper Klamath Lake , and the watershed above Upper Klamath Lake begins at the bottom of Page 27.)

After leaving Pit river and before reaching the Des Chutes valley, our course lay over plateau bordering on the eastern base of the Cascade Range . There are occasional low mountainous ridges upon it, but the general surface, for about 150 miles, retains an elevation above the sea varying but little from 4,500 feet.

Most of the region is sterile, although occasional fertile spots are found. Pumice-stone, trap rock, and other volcanic products, strew the ground; and pine forests or sage plains cover the whole face of the country. The banks of streams, however, are generally bordered with grass of good quality, and we experienced no difficulty in obtaining a sufficient supply for our large train of animals.

The system of drainage on this plateau is peculiar. There are numerous lakes, some of which have no know outlets, although they receive affluents. Wright and Rhett lakes were visited by our party. The former is surrounded by low hills, and, as far as our observation went, receives no tributary, although its waters are fresh. There may be, and doubtless are, springs among the hills, from which it draws its supply. In the rainy season it discharges its surplus waters by Lost river into Rhett lake, which has no known outlet. The level of this lake is 470 feet below that of Wright lake, although the distance between them, is a right line, is only about 6.5 miles.

The chain of Klamath waters is an interesting feature of this region. The highest point upon it visited by our party was near the northern end of Klamath marsh, but Colonel Fremont, in his expedition of 1843-’44, crossed the principal tributary of this marsh. He describes it as a stream thirty feet wide, and from two to four feet deep. It undoubtedly rises, as indicated upon his map, among the mountains east of Upper Klamath lake , and after flowing towards the north for a considerable distance, bends towards the south, and spreads out into Klamath marsh. When it emerges again, it is a large, deep stream, with a sluggish current. After passing through a canyon, four miles in length, the highest points of the sides of which are about 1,000 feet above the water surface, it again spreads out into a fine sheet of water, called Upper Klamath lake . This lake receives several small tributaries. The river leaves it near its southern point, and soon winds through a marsh, which forms the northern portion of Lower Klamath lake. Lieut. Williamson, with a detached party, examined this portion of its course, and his opinion was, that in season of high water the marsh is overflowed and the river can properly be said to flow through the lake. In the summer, however, its bed is very distinct, and it does not join the sheet of water forming the lake. After crossing the marsh it soon enters the canyon, by which it traverses the Cascade Range . Its subsequent course will be described, in the latter part of this chapter, under the head of “ Klamath river and its tributaries.” The portion of the plateau through which this chain of waters extends, is occasionally fertile and valuable for agricultural purposes, but most of it is utterly worthless.

(The section on the Upper Klamath Basin, i.e. Lost River, Upper Klamath Lake, and the watershed above Upper Klamath Lake begins on Page 64.)

sick, apparently of elder, about six inches long and a quarter of an inch in diameter, and, inserting one end in the hole, rolled it very rapidly between the palms of his hands. In a few moments sparks of fire fell down upon the tinder and ignited it. These savages have a fondness for smoking tobacco, which I have never seen equaled. They inhale the smoke, and, after retaining it as long as possible, force it through their nostrils in an ecstasy of pleasure. They mark their faces with black, as a sign of morning, and with red, for ornament; but I have never seen both colors used at once. Many of them perforate the nose, and insert a straight piece of bone about an inch and a half in length.

Our camp tonight was on the river bank near the eastern entrance of the canyon, where we found an abundant supply of excellent grass. I extract the following remarks upon the canyon, from Lieut. Williamson’s note book.

“The river itself was shallow throughout the whole canyon, and always had a space between the water and bluff wide enough for a wagon road. No falls were notices, and I saw nearly the whole of the canyon. The bluffs were from 100 to 700 or 800 feet in height, and of basaltic trap. The slope was generally of the debris from the rock, but often vertical columns of the basalt were seen. In one place I noticed veins of a red material, the color of cinnabar.”

August 8. – After fording the river, which was about forty feet in width, we continued our course through a level, grassy valley, bare of trees. Several grouse, duck and curlew were shot on the march. We passed many pits about six feet deep and lightly covered with twigs and grass. The river derives its name from these pits, which are dug by the Indians to entrap game. On this account, Lieut. Williamson always spelled the name with a single t, although on most maps it is written with two. We encamped on the bank of the river, which here flowed between bluffs, from twenty to thirty feet in height, bordered by bushes. Large quantities of obsidian were found in the vicinity. The river was about thirty feet in width.

“Today we had a level, good, but tedious ride. Opposite the middle of the valley, to the west, is an opening in the hills of considerable breadth. This looks as if the hills south of the opening were the northern slope of the range north of Fall River valley. Opposite the head of the valley the hills appear again. Near our evening camp, I went on a ridge and found the hills to the westward, not at all formidable in appearance, but which would still require work to make the passable for a railroad.”

August 9. – Lieut. Williamson directed me to remain in camp with the main party and observe for latitude, &c, today, while he, with Lieut. Sheridan and the dragoons, explored the road in advance. The heat was oppressive, but the bushes near the river bank afforded a thick and pleasant shade.

The following extract from Lieutenant Williamson’s journal shows the result of his examination.

“We followed the Lassen trail for 2.5 miles, to where it crossed the river at the mouth of a small, dry branch. We here left the road to take the old Oregon trail, which was very distinct. It let north up the branch to the divide, and thence on, in the same direction, until we struck a spring branch in pine timber, about seven miles from the river. I went on top of a partially bald hill and had a view of the country. The hills followed to the north, probably inclining to the east. The rest of the county east of the meridian line appeared to be rolling, or slightly hilly, covered with open pine timber. I was sorry I could not ascertain if the spring branch had a continuous bed to Pit river . Its course near its source was westerly;

but there is no reason to suppose that it did not bend toward the south, and discharge into Pit river about ten miles below our camp. I feel pretty sure either that it sinks, (that is, has no continuous bed,) or that it goes to Pit river . In the latter case, the railroad should follow it up.”

August 10. – Today, we traveled over the rout examined by Lieutenant Williamson yesterday, and encamped at what he termed the “spring branch.” It was a little creek about ten feet in width, which flowed through a small opening bordered by pine timber. The stream was so choked with bushes, that, in many places, it could only be reached by cutting them away. Towards the lower part of the spring, the brook spread out into a little swamp. Frogs of a very peculiar species were found in the creek and swamp, in great numbers. An antelope was shot near camp.

August 11. – The part was aroused at three o’clock this morning, by Lieutenant Williamson’s order; as it was very uncertain how far we might be obliged to travel before reaching water. The head of the antelope killed yesterday, had been baked by allowing it to remain all night buried among hot stones, and it furnished an excellent breakfast. We followed the wagon road through an open pine forest for about six miles, and then, finding that it inclined too much to the west, left it, and endeavored to keep, by compass, a course N, 20 degrees W. After traveling several miles on nearly level ground through the forest, we emerged from it, and found ourselves on a rocky plain covered with sage bushes. This we crossed in about six miles, and, on reaching the summit of a line of low sandstone hills capped with trap, saw below us Wright Lake . It was a fine sheet of water, about eleven mile long and four miles wide, bordered by tule. The banks were so miry that we were compelled to travel more than a mile before reaching a place where the animals could drink. We encamped in the edge of the tule, near some green willow bushes which supplied us with our only fuel, as even sage bushes had disappeared after crossing the hills.

August 12. – Our course, at first, lay along the southwestern shore of the lake, where the hills occasionally terminated very abruptly at the waters edge. The horn of a mountain sheep, weighing several pounds, was found near the trail. After crossing the low hills which border the lake, we traveled through a greatly undulating region, dotted with sage bushes, for about seven miles. We then found ourselves on the edge of an abrupt descent of 200 feet, which conducted to the shores of Rhett ( Tule Lake ) lake. This lake was about fourteen miles long and eight miles broad. It was bordered by a wide belt of tule, the home of vast numbers of water-fowl, which rose in clouds at our approach.

On the bluff the trail joined an emigrant road, which followed down a narrow ravine to the level of the lake. This ravine was one the scene of a bloody massacre. A party of Indians lay in ambush, until an emigrant train reached the middle of the descent, and then attacked and killed nearly the whole party. Rhett lake is a secure retreat, where the savages can escape among the tule, in their light canoes, and defy a greatly superior force.

The line of hills which borders the lake on the northeastern side, is separated from the tule by a narrow strip of land, elevated but little above the water. This was covered with grass, the right green of which presented a refreshing contrast to the sickly blue of the sage plain over which we had been traveling. The clouds of dust erased, and we journeyed on through a much more pleasing region. After riding a few miles from the bluff, we left the road, and encamped on Lost river near were it discharges itself into the lake by several mouths. It was a deep, unfordable stream, flowing with a very sluggish current. The banks were abrupt like the sides of a canal. A few sage bushes and “bois des vaches” supplied the only fuel.

We found, encamped near the stream, a party of men that had come from Yreka to meet an escort an expected emigrant train.

August 12. – Lieut. Williamson determined to pass around the western side of Lower Klamath lake, with Lieut. Sheridan and the dragoon detachment, to examine the route, and to ascertain whether Klamath river flowed through the lake or not. He gave me instructions to proceed with the main party to Upper Klamath lake , and, after selecting a good camping place near its southern extremity, to await his arrival. Nine of the foot soldiers were sick, and they accompanied Lieut. Williamson, to be sent, in charge of a non-commissioned officer, through the pass south of Mount Pitt to Fort Lane .

My party left camp first. We followed up the eastern bank of Lost river, though a dusty sage plain almost destitute of grass, to the Natural Bridge . The river was here about eighty feet wide and very deep; but it was spanned by two natural bridges of conglomerate sandstone from ten to fifteen feet in width, parallel to each other, and not more then two rods apart. The water flowed over both of them. The top of the most northern one inclined down stream, but it was only covered to a depth varying from six inches to two feet. The other was nearly horizontal, but the water, being unusually high, was too deep for fording. There are probably hollows under both arches, through which the river flows. Emigrants cross here with their loaded wagons. There is no ford for a considerable distance above, and none below. We passed over without difficulty, and followed a well marked Indian trail towards the north, through a level valley dotted with sage bushes and a few clumps of bunch grass. The river, which was full of short bends, was often sunk as much as thirty feet below the plain. There was apparently a good ford 4.5 miles above the Natural Bridge . The valley was about three mile wide, and bordered by high hills; those on the east being well timbered, and those on the west nearly bare. The bunch grass became more abundant as we advanced, and the sage bushes fewer in number. After traveling twelve miles from the Natural Bridge , we reach a place where the river issued through a canyon from the hills to the eastward; and, although the valley continued towards the north, it was entirely destitute of water. As the distance to Klamath lake was unknown, we left the trail and encamped near the mouth of the canyon. The general surface of the plain was here about forty feet above the water; but it was connected by a bench, about 200 yards in width, of not more than half that height. This formed a good camping ground; being covered with flue bunch grass, while bushes and small trees for fuel were found in abundance near the edge of the stream.

August 14. – This morning some excitement was created by the discovery of a huge rattlesnake coiled up under a blanket. The reptile was killed; but, as we all slept without tents on the ground, unpleasant ideas were suggested by the incident. Our course lay towards the north, through a narrow valley thinly covered with sage bushes and clumps of bunch grass. It was bordered by timbered hill which gradually closed in upon the trail. We crossed several dry beds of streams, and also the bottom of what, in the rainy season, was undoubtedly a small lake. It was now dry, and covered with a white efflorescence. After traveling 9.5 miles we reached a low line of hills, which formed the northern boundary of the valley. Klamath river forced its way through the ridge by a narrow canyon, and , after flowing along the western side of the valley for a short distance and spreading out into a small lake, disappearing among the hills towards the west. On reaching the summit of the very low divide, composed of trap rock, we saw outspread before us Upper Klamath lake . It was a fine sheet of water, thirty miles long and twelve miles wide, bordered by timbered ridges with an occasional narrow belt of tule. Light clouds of smoke rising from signal fries upon several of the hills satisfied us that watchful

eyes were measuring our advance. We had stuck a small arm of the lake, from which Klamath river issued. Following along the eastern side, we crossed a grassy meadow, and encamped at the extremity of a hilly promontory which projected into the lake. Excellent bunch grass, with gushes and small trees for fuel, abounded in the vicinity. East of the promontory, a wide field of tule prevented approach to the water; but the western shore was rocky and bold, Snakes of various kinds were very plentiful. Several large rattlesnakes were killed before we had been in camp an hour; and I counted nearly a dozen cast off skins lying within a rod of each other. Two squaws came into camp in the afternoon, with a few fish which they had caught in the lake. We game them some presents, and they paddled rapidly away in their canoe to spread the news. The water taken from the lake had a dark color and a disagreeable taste, occasioned apparently by decayed tule.

August 15. – We remained in camp today, waiting for Lieut. Williamson. Several good observations were obtained for latitude and altitude.

About midnight a sudden alarm aroused camp. The cook’s fire had spread, by some dead roots, to the dry grass and bushes; and a general conflagration was prevented only by the most vigorous exertions. It was at first supposed that the Indians had kindled the fire, to engage our attention while they stampeded the mules, and this idea did not tend to lessen the excitement and confusion of the scene.

August 16. – Today was spent in taking astronomical and barometric observations, while waiting for Lieut. Williamson. A thick haze which covered the lake, entirely concealed the opposite shore. The taste of the water was so disagreeable that several vain attempts were made to discover a spring in the vicinity.

August 17. – Lieut. Williamson with his escort came into camp at noon , having made a satisfactory examination of Lower Klamath lake. A description of his route will be found in Chapter IV. (see below) Three broken down mules of the escort train were shot today, and every preparation was made for an early start tomorrow.

August 18. – The ridges on the eastern side of the lake, which were composed of vesicular trap. Appeared to run parallel to each other in a northeast and southeast direction, and to terminate abruptly at the water’s edge, a well marked Indian trail followed along the shore; but members of the party who had explored it for a short distance reported it very rocky, and impassible for “the little cart,” as the odometer wheels still continued to be termed. Lieut. Williamson had observed several Indian trails diverging to the right on his last day’s march; and he therefore determined to follow a southeast course, hoping to discover some good pass by which he could cross the ridges, and thus avoid the rocks and bends of the shore. After traveling about three miles in this direction through a wooded country, he thought it best to cross abruptly a steep and rocky ridge to the east. We thus reached a narrow valley, lying between two steep ranges of hills, and filled with open pine timber. There was a large Indian trail in it, which conducted us to the lake. A precipitous and rocky ridge rose abruptly from the water, leaving barely sufficient room to pass along the bank. After traveling a short distance, we reached a point where several springs gushed from the hill side, and disappeared among thick bushes surrounded by luxuriant grass. The water was clear and pure, and Lieut. Williamson at once encamped. Elder and service berries were found in abundance. A thick haze prevented astronomical observations, and concealed the western shore of the lake. Snakes, as usual in this region, were very numerous, and one of them glided suddenly among our dishes, as we were sitting down on the ground to eat.

August 19. – This morning the trail, for three or four miles, wound along the rocky side of the ridge which bordered the lake, and was, in consequence, very rough. Huge rocks, piled near the water’s edge, prevented the passage of “the little cart” by that route. The hill side was sparsely covered with scattered pines, but near the lake shore springs were numerous, and the growth of bushes was often dense. Bartee, the guide, shot three bald eagles with his rifle, as we passed along the base of the crags upon which they were fearlessly resting.

In riding under the projecting limb of a tree, Mr. Daniels was knocked from his mule and quite severely injured. The county had recently been burnt over, and the want of grass compelled Lieut. Williamson unwillingly to continue the march. The trail soon diverged from the lake shore, and after passing over a dry plain entered an open pine forest. In a short time we found ourselves on the banks of Klamath river , which was flowing through a fine, grassy bottom, marked by a few clumps of will bushes. Here we encamped. The river was about 150 feet wide, and apparently quite deep. There was a ford, however a short distance below. Every requisite for a good camp ground was found n abundance in the vicinity.

August 20. – Mr. Daniels was much better this morning and able to ride his mule.

As had been usual of late, a dense fog obscured the view for two or three hours after starting. Our course lay up the eastern side of the beautiful valley of Klamath river . The bottom was at first open, covered with green grass, and bordered by low timbered hills. We passed several cliffs of basaltic broccia, from twenty to fifty feet in height, and occasionally ornamented with rude, Indian paintings. The current of the stream was not very rapid, and there appeared to be several fords. The trail crossed one large and fine tributary which flowed swiftly over a rocky bed. After traveling twelve miles from camp, we reached the mouth of a canyon from which the river emerged. The sides were of basaltic rock and pumice-stone, and very steep. Lieut. Williamson estimated their height at 1,000 feet at the highest points. We followed the trail over the ridge on the eastern side of the river, and several times looked down into the canyon. Its course appeared to be straight in the main, but small bends were numerous. The ridge was heavily timbered with pine. The forest was on fire, and an occasional heavy crash reverberating for miles, warned us to beware of falling trees. The canyon was about four miles in length. A short distance beyond its northern entrance, we emerged from the forest and entered a lovely meadow, covered with clover and fine green grass. The ground was miry near the river, which was deep and sluggish, and we encamped at the edge of the timber. The meadow appeared to be an arm of Klamath marsh, and was evidently flooded at seasons of high water.

August 21. – This morning at daybreak, the fog was so dense that we could not see fifty yards in advance, but the sun soon caused it to melt away. The trail led us over a thickly timbered ridge which projected into the meadow. The soil was light pumice-stone dust, and fallen threes rendered traveling somewhat difficult. At the northeastern base of the ridge we reached the shore of Klamath marsh. This was a strip of half submerged land, about twelve miles long and seven miles broad. It was covered by clumps of tule and other aquatic plants separated by small sheets of water. Thousands of ducks, plover, and other water birds made it their home. They were so tame that they would hardly fly at the report of a gun, but it was useless to shoot them, as the deep mud rendered it impossible to secure them afterwards. We surprised two Indians on the shore, and endeavored to make them understand that we were friendly; but they evidently distrusted our professions, and escaped as soon as possible.

Lieut. Williamson decided to follow the eastern shore of the marsh. We soon reached a collection of Indian huts built near the edge of the water. Our two friends had evidently been there before us, for the rancheria had been very recently deserted. Large quantities of food,

consisting mostly of seeds of water plants and dried fish, several canoes made of hallowed logs, many baskets formed of reeds curiously woven together, and divers other valuable, were scattered around in wild confusion. The fires were burning in front of the huts, of which there were three distinct kinds. The summer lodges had vertical walls supporting flat roofs. They were composed of a framework of sticks, covered with a matting of woven tule. The winter huts were shaped like bee-hives, and made of sticks plastered with mud. We noticed only one of the third kind, which was apparently used for a council house. A hole, about four feet deep and ten feet square, had been excavated, and the earth heaped up around the sides. Large sticks planted in this mud wall supported a roof made of cross poles covered with earth. The entrance was by a flight of mud steps that conducted to the roof, from which a rude ladder led through a hole to the floor below. Each of these structures is represented in the accompanying wood cuts, together with some conical graves described below.

The dusky inmates of the rancheria had betaken themselves to their canoes, and retreated among the tule to what they considered a safe distance. They now stood, yelling like fiends and shaking their weapons at us in impotent rage. Strict orders had been given that none of their property should be injured; and we passed rapidly along the shore of the marsh, surprising a new rancheria at almost every turn. The number of these savages is very large; and nature has given them so secure a retreat, that only a greatly superior force provided with boats, could attack them to advantage. They paddled through openings among the tule, and thus accompanied us, uttering hideous howls when the labor of working their passage did not keep them quiet. We passed on the way one of their burial places. The bodies had been doubled up, and placed in a sitting posture in holes. The earth, when replaced, formed conical mounds over the heads. Near the other graves, but on a slight eminence, stood a new wall-tent, such as is used in our service. It was regularly pitched and the front tied up. On looking

inside, we saw a large mound about two feet in height, the base of which covered the whole space enclosed by the walls. A new blanket was spread over the top. Here, doubtless, was the grave of some great chief; but how the savages became possessed of the tent remains a mystery. Along the whole chain of Klamath waters we noticed, in many places, large stones laid one upon the other, forming piles from two to six feet in height. Some of the party thought that these were marks to show the trail when the ground was covered with snow; but the vast numbers of them sometime found within a few feet of each other, and their frequent proximity to trees which could easily have been blazed, rendered this hypothesis rather improbable.

After traveling about sixteen miles from the place where we first struck the marsh, we reached a part where it was not more than a mile wide. Seeing several mounted Indians hastily driving a number of horses across, we attempted to follow, but found the ground too miry for pack animals. As it was almost sundown, Lieut. Williamson decided to encamp near some trees on the shore. The only water was that found stagnant on the surface of the marsh. The grass was good, but it had been eaten quite short by the Indian horses. As we had been careful to do the savages no injury, they began to doubt our hostile character, and sent in a few squaws as an experiment. As they were dismissed with presents, large numbers of men entered camp, and made great profession of friendship. We distrusted them, however, and kept a close watch upon the animals during the night.

August 22. – This morning many Indians came into camp. They were all well dressed in blankets and buckskin, and were armed with bows and arrows and a few fire-arms. Their intercourse with the Oregon settlements had taught many of them to speak the Chinook, or Jargon language, and one had a slight knowledge of English. They owned many horses, some of which were valuable animals. No offer would tempt them to sell any of the latter, although they were eager to dispose of a few miserable hacks too worthless to purchase.

The idea, which prevails in Oregon , that all Indian horses are of an inferior breed, doubtless arises from the fact that such only are brought to the settlements for sale. Near Klamath marsh, we saw a few animals of a piebald color, whose graceful forms and clear, piercing eyes showed very superior blood. It may be that their genealogy extends back to the Barbary steeds introduced by the Spaniards into

Mexico

, and supposed to be the progenitors of the wild horses of the prairies.

Near the spot where we were camped, the marsh was not more than a mile in width; but it extended an indefinite distance towards the east, and the Indians informed us that the journey round it was very long, and without water. They volunteered to show us a natural causeway to the other side; but it proved too miry for pack mules. Our new friends all declared that the best trail to the Des Chutes valley led round the western side of the marsh; and Lieut. Williamson finally decided to turn back and try that route. We followed almost the same trail as yesterday, and encamped near the southern point of the marsh.

A large number of Indians accompanied us, one of whom Lieut. Crook had formerly seen in Yreka. These savages were intelligent, and in every way superior to those of Pit river . By questioning them in Chinook, Lieut. Williamson, assisted by Lieut. Crook, obtained the following partial vocabulary of their language.

English	Klamath	English	Klamath
Acorn	stup-ultz	Knife	wah-ti
Alive, life	muk-lux	Leaf	ta-pac
Arm	shish-am-e-ny	Leg	taosk
Arrow	ky-ish	Lightning	lu-i-pols
Autumn	schoh	Man	hish-watz
Axe, hatchet	schlak-ote	Money	dollar
Bad	ko-its	Moon	sa-pas
Bark	ntsh-atz	Morning	po-sant
Beard	smokl-smunkl	Mother	kis-up
Bird	yoke-ul	Mountain	whal-lace
Black	wush-push-li	Mouth	shum
Blood	icha-co li	Nails	staks
Blue	ketch-ketch-o-li	Neck	ne-is
Bone	ku-ko	Night	pshin
Bow	ty-ish	Nose	pshish
Boy	kitch'-ca'ne	Old man	chick-ah
Bread	sap-pe-lill	Pipe, calumet	ps-nx-pox
Canoe	wountz	Pistol	an-co
Chief	lak-i	Rain	klote-sus
Cold	kah-ti-kah	Red	tak-tak-o-li
Cow	mus-a-mus	River	lto-kali
Day	ny-i-ta	Saddle	kok-lus
Dead, death	klah'-ka	Salmon, fish	tchi-aitz
Deer	lil-lunx	Sea	an-pu-al-la
Ear	mo-mo-watz	Shirt	tsho-lish
Earth, land	kshun	Sky, heaven	pit-eye
Evening	lic-kah	Small, little	wik-a-no
Eye	lolpe	Snake	kah-is'
Father	ptic-up	Snow	cha-ish
Feet	patz	Spring	schoh
Fingers	spal-o-wish	Star	ktsol
Fire	lo-lux	Stick	koso
Fire-wood	an-co	Stone, rock	kty
Friend	tit-al	Squirrel	tsutz-tsao
Girl	na-watz'-ka	Summer	pa-ta
Good	titch-l	Son	wy-tah
Grass	ksoon	Thou	naw
Great, big	ah-tay-ne	Thunder	le-mais
Green	ma-ax	Tobacco	kotz-kul
Hair	lak	Toes	spal-o-wish
Hand	nap	Tongue	pa-watz
Hat	tsho-nash	Tooth	tota
Head	nos	Town, village	to-me lat-sus
Heart	sty-mas	Tree	wah-ko
Hill	kin-ka-ny	Warm	walks
House	lat-sus	Water	am-bo
Indian shoes	wuk-schu	White	pol-pol-i
Infant	mu-kak	Wind	scal-wa-is
Iron	wah-ti-ti	Winter	lol-dum
Kettle	po-ko	Woman	schnah-watz
		Yellow	kak-kak-o-li

August 23. – This morning we started with a large retinue of savages. The trail led through open pine timber for about a mile, and then entered a fine, grassy meadow which extended towards the north to Klamath marsh. About three miles from camp we reached Klamath river , here a sluggish stream divided into two braches by a narrow island. The water rose to the backs of the smaller mules, and Lieut. Williamson employed the Indians to transport the packs across in canoes. This the squaws, who perform all the work, did by paddling round the northern end of the island. After paying their husbands with red blankets, beads, and vermillion, which they appear to highly prize, we continued our course through the grassy meadow until we reached a clear, ice-cold stream flowing through open timber. Here we encamped. The brook rose in springs about a mile from where we struck it, according to the report of the guide, who shot three antelopes near its source in the afternoon.

August 24. – This morning the Indians left us. We followed a large but crooked trail through a thick pine forest. Fallen timber of small size somewhat obstructed the way, but there were no hills. The soil was light volcanic ashes, in which the animals sank nearly to the knee if they left the beaten trail. The dust was stifling. About 13.5 miles from camp, we reached the dry bed of a stream which was fringed with willows but entirely destitute of water. About five miles further on we came to a water hole, and, as it was nearly sundown, Lieut. Williamson decided to encamp, although there was no grass. The water was good, but the hole filled slowly, and the supply was scanty. Two more holes were dug a short distance further up the ravine, but most of the animals passed the night suffering from both hunger and thirst.

August 25. – Today we continued our march through a county similar, in all respects to that

traveled yesterday, except that it became slightly undulating. The dense clouds of dust raised by our animals from the ashy soil were suffocating. After riding about 18.7 miles from camp, we suddenly emerged from the dense forest, and found ourselves in the beautiful grassy bottom of the Des Chutes river. It was here a fine stream about thirty feet in width, and fordable although the current was rapid and the bed stony. We immediately encamped. At the water hole, this morning, two trails diverged. We followed the more easterly one; but two of the party by mistake took the other, which was equally large. It conducted them to a point further up stream, and was doubtless a trail leading to the wagon road across the Cascade Range , which Lieut. Williamson subsequently examined. The supply of grass tonight was abundant, and of fine quality; the water was cold, and the position in every respect excellent for a camp. Large numbers of delicious trout, marked with red longitudinal stripes, were caught with great ease in the river.

NARRATIVE AND ITINERARY CONTINUED. – ROUTES OF DETACHED PARTIES IN CHARGE OF LIEUT. WILLIAMSON

These itineraries have been compiled entirely from Lieut. Williamson’s field notes, as I did not accompany him on the expedition. As his journal was written hastily and without any view to publication, considerable revision has been necessary – so much, indeed, as to preclude the use of question marks. I have, however, been careful to adhere to his own words as far as possible.

August 13. – I started this morning with Lieut. Sheridan and the dragoons to follow round the western side of Lower Klamath lake, having directed Lieut. Abbot to pass with the main party up the eastern side, and rejoin me near Upper Klamath lake. I crossed Lost river at the Natural Bridge , and then proceeded on the Yreka trail to where the Oregon trail diverged from it. We traveled today about twenty miles and encamped on a stream, ten feet wide, which flowed from springs at the foot of a neighboring hill.

August 14. – About a mile from camp I saw a white spot on the road, and found that the ground became white as I approached it. On the spot itself were fragments of a white, soft stone, apparently clay. A piece was preserved for examination. About five miles from camp we crossed a fine spring branch, rising at the foot of hills within one hundred yards of the trail, and apparently joining the one on which we had encamped, near Lower Klamath lake. Three miles further on we crossed another spring branch emptying into the lake. About two or three miles further on we skirted the western side of the lake. The body of water was small, but a large marsh extended for about ten miles towards the north. We soon entered pine timber, and after crossing a pretty high divide reached Klamath river , a short distance from the lake. The sick men were better. I prepared letters for the War Department, to send by them to Fort Lane .

August 15. – Within half a mile of camp, the river came through hills forming a canyon. We were obliged to ascend the ridge, and follow it for about six miles. We then descended, forded the river, and soon reached the edge of the marsh. Our course thus far today had been nearly parallel to that of yesterday. After taking several compass bearings, we followed a northerly

JOURNAL OF LT. WILLIAMSON’S SIDE EXPLORATIONS, COMPILED FROM HIS NOTES PAGE 77

course to a spring on the edge of the marsh, where we encamped. The river comes into the marsh, moves through it, and passes off to the canyon, without any visible connection with the main body of water in the lake, which lies further to the southward. Doubtless, in the rainy season, the water covers the whole marsh, and then the river literally passes through the lake. Several deer were killed today; one of which, a very fat buck, was supposed to weigh over two hundred pounds. The sick men were sent this morning, through the pass south of Mount Pitt , to Fort Lane .

August 16. – We started this morning to follow up the Klamath river . Much to our surprise, we came at noon to an arm of a large lake from which the river flowed. This proved to be Upper Klamath lake . It was difficult to say where the connecting river ended and the lower lake began. Where the tule ceased, the river ran rapidly between hills backed by higher ridges and was full of rapids. In one place there were falls from five to ten feet high. We found the river everywhere too deep to ford. At the rapids, where many rocks rose above the water, there were numerous deep holes; and near where it emerged from the lake it was twenty feet deep. We fortunately found two old canoes, and lashing them together, formed a raft upon which we carried our luggage across. The animals swam over without accident. We encamped near the spot.

August 17. – This morning the sentinel did not arouse camp at the time ordered, and it was about eight o’clock before we were ready to start. We soon reached the main party, which we found in camp on the lake shore. They had been waiting for us two days.

(The section about the Klamath Basins starts on Page 36 and ends on Page 39)

Like the plains of Pit river the several areas, in which are set Wright, Rhett, and the Klamath lakes, exhibits the typical features of the structure of the entire region with which they are inseparably connected, and which, with very imperfect notions of its character, has been dominated the Great Basin. This immense area, cut in various directions by ranges of low mountains and hills, has, by this and other causes, been divided into many subordinate districts, each of which, possessing some characters peculiar to itself, has, also, many features which are common to all. They all form portions of the same great plateau to which allusion has already been made, and which exhibits everywhere a remarkable unity of geological structure, of climate, and in its flora and fauna.

Of the many secondary basins which go to make up this area, those which lie nearest the base of the mountain wall, on the west, receive a larger share of the rain precipitated upon it then those which are more remote. As a consequence, the supply of water received through the year is greater than the annual evaporation, and this excess flows off in the streams which lead from them. At a period not very remote in the history of our continent, the amount of water falling into the Klamath and Pit river basins was, probably, much greater than now,

and covered, to a considerable depth, surfaces which are now exposed. The streams which flowed from these areas had greater volume, and flowed from a higher level than at present. To this cause we may attribute the deep channels which they have cut through the resistant material of the mountain barriers which opposed their progress to the ocean.

In all their general features, the basins of the Klamath lakes closely copy those of upper Pit river . They form elongated troughs, lying between nearly parallel mountain ranges, of which that on the west is broken through by Klamath river , which reaches the ocean through a canyon as deeply cut as that of Pit river . The bottom of this trough is covered – to how great a depth we do not know – by a series of stratified deposits, altogether similar to those which I have described. The drainage of this basin has, however, been less complete then that of the Sacramento and upper Pit river , and large portions of its surface are still occupied by bodies of water.

The geology of the interval between Pit river , at the point where we left it, and Wright lake, is exceedingly monotonous. Four or five miles north of Pit river we lost all traces of the older volcanic rocks, to which I have referred as occurring in that vicinity; and from that point, northward, for thirty miles we passed over a succession of plateaus of vesicular trap, precisely like that which occurs so abundantly about Fort Reading, this being apparently the form which the volcanic material always assumes when poured out in floods of considerable depth on to surfaces not covered by water.

Near Wright lake occurs a conical mountain of trap rock, which rises to a height of perhaps 1,500 feet from the plain on which it stands. The south shore of this lake is bordered by a mountain range of nearly equal altitude, which has here a course nearly east and west; curving round towards the north, its western extremity terminates in a gold headland on the shore of Rhett lake, and is connected by a low ridge, with similar hills, lying north of these lakes. This connecting ridge, forming the barrier between Rhett and Wright lakes, is composed exclusively of trap, and bears on it a conical hill of blood-red scoria, which has evidently at no distant day formed a volcanic vent.

Rhett lake is bordered on the east and north by cliffs of considerable height, of which the base is composed of light-colored sandstone, the upper portion of trap. This sandstone, which is very soft and friable, belongs to the series of infusorial marls of which I have so frequently spoken.

On the eastern shore of the lake is a conical hill, considerably removed from the cliffs referred to, but having apparently the same structure. It is composed at base of sandstone, regularly stratified, and nearly horizontal, and is capped with trap. Both the trap and sandstone were doubtless once connected with the similar strata in the cliffs, now nearly half a mile removed. We have here evidence of an amount of erosion which can hardly be attributed to the action of

any cause now operating, and it is quite certain that the surface of the surrounding country – like all that which we traversed west of the Cascade mountains – has never been swept by a drift current. I can only explain it by connecting it with the presence of a much larger quantity of water in this basin at a former period than is found here now.

In that portion of the Klamath basin through which Lost river flows, the same sandstone is found interstratified with infusorial marls, which are fine and white. At the “ Natural Bridge ” these strata have been thrown up by a fault, and form a dam across the stream, where it is forded. The sandstone here contains black scoria in rounded masses, frequently as large as an egg. In this respect, as well as in texture, it resembles a sandstone forming part of the series of tufaceous marls, described in Chapter 1, as occurring on the south shore of the San Pablo bay. Here, as there, the greater part of the material being undoubtedly of volcanic origin, consisting of ashes, comminuted pumice, mingled with masses of scoria, all of which have been thrown into water and stratified by deposition.

I may say, in this connection, that I obtained from Mt. Hood , in Oregon , volcanic ashes which had been recently thrown out, which would form precisely similar strata, if similarly treated. From Lost river, these infusorial marls underlying the surface of a nearly level plain, extend to and actually surround Lower Klamath lake, reaching as far north as the southern end of Upper Klamath lake . On the shores of Rhett lake, and several localities on the plain, which I have mentioned, the surface is covered with a white efflorescence resembling snow. It is doubtless derived, in a great degree, from the marl beds, which usually contain a notable quantity of soluble salts. Specimens of this efflorescence was remitted to Dr. J. D. Easter for analysis, upon which he has rendered the following report:

“A while saline efflorescence from Rhett lake, Oregon . – The salt, freed by solution from earthy and vegetable matter, consisted of sulphates of soda and magnesia, with a considerable proportion of chloride of sodium. A quantitative analysis was begun, but the vessel containing the solution was broken during my absence from the laboratory, and no more of the salts remained. The efflorescence is similar to a large number of specimens which I have analyzed from California and New Mexico .”

Across the south end of Upper Klamath lake a low ridge of trap runs, by which its waters are considerably raised above the plain surrounding Lower Klamath lake. On the flanks of the hills which compose this barrier I found the infusorial marls, here highly metamorphosed, some of the specimens approaching jasper in appearance. The hills bordering the lake near its southern end are composed of soft pulverulent sandstone, similar to that found on the shore of Rhett lake, and, like that, composed of thick beds of trap.

The hills bordering Upper Klamath lake are high and bold on wither side; on the west, rising in successive grades until they join the Cascades, here crowned by the lofty and symmetrical cone of Mount Pitt; on the east, a succession of trap ranges, having a trend nearly northwest and southeast, terminate in bold headlands which project into the lake and form its shore. These ranges rise to an altitude of twelve to fifteen hundred feet, with valleys of corresponding depth. They are composed of dark vesicular trap, in some places scoriaceous. The most northerly of these interrupted ranges, along the northern base of which Klamath river flows for several miles, is, in a great degree, composed of volcanic breecia, the enclosed fragments ranging in size from two to six or eight inches in diameter.

At the junction of the east branch of Klamath river with the main stream, for some distance along the base of the ridge of which I have spoken, a stratum of infusorial marls is exposed,

which is white and chalk-like, in all respects resembling that from Pit river and the plains about Lower Klamath lake. A few miles north of this occurs another volcanic ridge, having nearly the same trend with those last mentioned, from which it is separated by the nearly level and, in many places, fertile valley through which Klamath river flows. This ridge is composed partly of dark, compact trap and partly of white and soft pumice, which, in many places, covers the surface, and, in it decomposition, gives rise to a peculiarly light and ash-like soil, upon which nothing seems to flourish, but the yellow pine. Through this ridge Klamath river flows in a canyon, of which the walls are perpendicular and two hundred feet or more in height.

North of this ridge is another low and level plain, of which the surface is in many places covered with pumice. Crossing another but lower ridge of similar character, we descend to the shore of Klamath marsh. This lake occupies an area similar in all respects to those below, and like them is formed by the crossing of the general trough in which they all lie, of the transverse trap ranges to which I have alluded. Along the eastern shore these ranges are very conspicuous, several of them running far out into the lake, and throwing its eastern border into a series of long points, alternating with deep bays.

The pumice is here as marked a feature in the geology of the district as the trap; covering all the surfaces, and forming a soil into which the feet of our horses sank so deeply as to render any departure from the trail which followed the outline of the sore very disagreeable. At the north end of the lake, a point of metamorphosed slate projects a few feet above the surface, and forms the only exposure of rock of this character seen within many miles of that point.

The western shore of this lake is formed by a broad prairie scarcely raised above the water level, and doubtless at some seasons submerged. It seemed everywhere underlaid by fragments of pumice, which had apparently been so accurately leveled by the action of the water. This pumice, when pulverized, forms a substance having a striking resemblance to the marls to which I have so often referred, and, aside from the organic structures which they contain, they have doubtless been formed of similar materials,

The interval separating Klamath lake from the head-waters of the Des Chutes river forms a nearly level plain, covered everywhere with pulverized pumice, and supporting a meager growth of yellow and spruce pine. Both east and west, ranges of hills are visible from the route which we followed, and at various points masses of black basalt project above the general surface. From the porous nature of the soil, the streams which come down from the mountains at the west are soon absorbed, and we were only enabled to obtain water by digging, at a single point on our journey. At this point, the water seems to have been brought to the surface by a dyke of trap rock which impedes its subterranean flow from the west.

A precisely similar surface borders the south fork of the Des Chutes to its junction with the main stream which comes down from the Cascade mountains . On the banks of this latter stream are exposed, in various localities, strata of white, chalk-like marls, and light brown, green, and friable sandstone, in all respects identical with those of Pit river and Klamath basins.