George Gibbs’ Journal of Redick McKee’s Expedition

Through Northwestern California in 1851

Edited and with annotations by

Robert F. Heizer

ARCHEOLOGICAL RESEARCH FACILITY  

Department of Anthropology  

University of California  

Berkeley  

1972

TABLE OF CONTENTS           

            Introduction                                                                        1  

          Gibb’s Journal                                                                     [1]  

          Indian Populations of North-western California in 1851   [80]  

          Notes                                                                                    [81]          

Introduction

            George Gibbs’ Journal which is reprinted here,* was written in 1851 while he was serving as interpreter on the treaty-making expedition of Redick McKee who had been appointed as one of three Treaty Commissioners by President Fillmore.  The area which fell to McKee by lot was the Coast Ranges north of San Francisco Bay and those portions of northern California which lay beyond the area assigned to O. M. Wozencraft.  McKee made four treaties, the ones officially referred to as O, P, Q and R.  

          George Gibbs was an intelligent and perceptive person, as the reader of his Journal will see.  Gibbs was born in New York in 1815 and died in 1873.  He entered Harvard University , graduated in law in 1838, and started legal practice.  But the law did not really appeal to him and when the opportunity presented itself to go to the Far West , only recently come under American control, and with the California Gold Rush in progress, he moved to Oregon with the Mounted Rifle Regiment.  In Oregon he became deputy customs collector at Astoria and later became attached to the Indian Commission in Oregon .  In Oregon Gibbs learned the Chinook jargon.+  When and why he came to California we do not know, but in July, 1851, he was in Sonoma and was employed there by McKee to serve as interpreter for the party which was going north into an area known to be full of Indians and with whom treaties were to be made.  

          The map which Gibbs alludes to in the beginning of the second paragraph of his Journal has never been published.  If it still exists, as seems probable, it would be a valuable document to make public.  The vocabularies collected by Gibbs are published in Schoolcraft, Vol. III, pp. 428-445.  

          I have not tried to plot the expedition’s route in terms of present day geography since it can be followed without much difficulty.  Most of the place names cited by Gibbs have remained to the present.  Some have been abandoned, and the interested reader can consult O. C. Coy  (op. cit. in Note 32 infra) for many toponymic identifications of Gold Rush times.  

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*  Original in Henry R. Schoolcraft, Historical and Statistical Information, Respecting The History, Condition and Prospects of The Indian Tribes of The United States .  Vol. III, pp. 99-177, 1853.  Philadelphia.  

+  These meager details of Gibbs’ life are taken from information provided by D. I. Bushnell, Drawings by George Gibbs in the Far Northwest, 1849-1851.  Smithsonian Inst., Misc. Coll., Vol. 97, No. 8, 1938.

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      Since the printed text of the 1853 publication is being reproduced, it is difficult to insert numbers for notes, and I have therefore used the device of entering the note numbers in the margin opposite the underlined word in the text to which the note refers.  I trust that the reader will not construe my underlining as Gibbs’ emphases.  (These margin note numbers are along side the underlined word/words and all notes are available at the end of the Journal.  ~  Typist)  

      The page numbers of the 1853 publication have been retained, and I have added new pagination at the bottom in brackets for simpler reference citation.  

     Appended is McKee’s population table for northwestern California Indians which appeared as Section R in Schoolcraft (op. cit.) Vol. III, Chap. XV, See R, p. 634, 1853.  

     In addition to Gibbs Journal, a second and more official one entitled “Minutes Kept by John McKee, Secretary, on the Expedition from Sonoma Through Northern California” was recorded and published in Documents of the Senate of the United States During the Special Session Called March 4, 1853.  John McKee’s “Minutes” are part of Ex. Doc. 4 cited immediately above, and occupy pp. 134-187.  It would be nice to reprint this also, but it does not offer enough that is new to warrant the expense.  McKee’s Minutes are concerned largely with day-to-day occurrences of the train and does not contain nearly the amount of ethnographic fact which Gibbs’ Journal does.  In 1852Gibbs returned, as a gold miner, to northwestern California and wrote a new series of ethnographic observations entitled “Observations on the Indians of the Klamath River and Humboldt Bay , Accompanying Vocabularies of Their Languages.  This manuscript in the Smithsonian Institution Anthropological Archives will shortly be published by the Archaeological Research Facility.  

     In addition to the two detailed accounts of the 1851 expedition (Gibbs’ Journal and J. McKee’s Minutes) we also have a series of official letters written during the trip by R. McKee himself which are published in Executive Document 4 (cited above), on pp. 181-186, 191-195, 211-224, 227-228, 235-236, 239-240, 247-249, 269-270, 294-332, 345-347, 353-360, 364-365, 385-389.  Included in the last cited references is a series of letters between McKee, Governor Bigler and U.S. Army officers over responsibility to manage difficulties which had arisen between white gold miners in the “Northern Mines” and local Indians.  Letters or reports written by other members of McKee’s party or having to so with its business appear in the same source on pp. 225-226, 270-283, 347-352, 381.

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      3.   J O U R N A L   O F   T H E   E X P E D I T I O N   O F   C O L O N E L   R E D I C K    M’ K E E,   U N I T E D   S T A T E S   I N D I A N   A G E N T   T H R O U G H   N O R T H W E S T E R N   C A L I F O R N I A.   P E R F O R M E D   I N   T H E    S U M M E R   A N D  F A L L   O F   1 8 5 1.

                                                                            BY GEORGE GIBBS  

                                                                  BENICIA , California , Feb. 23, 1852

      SIR : ----  Herewith you will receive a transcript of the diary kept by me during your recent expedition through the north-western part of this State, as also a map illustrating the country, and a few sketches and vocabularies of the languages in use among the Indian tribes through whom we passed,

      With regard to the map, it is proper to state that it covers a district very little known, and heretofore never surveyed.  These portions adjacent to the route traveled

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over, are believed to be laid down with sufficient accuracy for ordinary purposes.  As regards the rest, the best information which could be obtained has been used.  It will be readily understood, that in a rapid march through a region of such considerable extent, many details have been passed over, which, in some respects, are important; but the general features of the country may be relied on as accurate.

            As to the opinions advanced in the journal, you will of course in no wise be considered as responsible.

                                                                                    I am, sir,

                                                                                                Very respectfully yours,  

Colonel R. M’Kee                                                                                    GEORGE GIBBS.         

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JOURNAL

Monday, Aug, 11. – Colonel M’Kee and party, escorted by Major Wessells, and a detachment of thirty-five mounted riflemen, left Sonoma this morning, and moved over to Santa Rosa , encamping a little beyond Carillo’s ranch.  An odometer attached to one of the wagons, gave the distance at about 19 ¾ miles.  The general route proposed to be followed by the expedition, was up Russian river to its sources, down Eel river to Humboldt ban, and thence over to the Klamath, ascending that to the neighborhood of   Shaste [1] Valley , should the season permit.

          A large number of Indians, belonging to this and the neighboring ranches, were collected in the afternoon, and informed of the objects of the agent, who promised, at a future time, to meet them for the purpose of making a formal treaty.  Their neighborhood to the settlements, and the importance of first ascertaining the numbers and conditions of those more distant, as well as the country suitable for a reservation, rendered any immediate action here undesirable.  It is unnecessary to say, that these ranch Indians are entirely inoffensive, and perfectly under the control of the Spanish proprietors, who, in fact, have always treated them as peons, and inculcated the idea of their obligation to labor.  From their influence with these bands, or rancherias, the principal difficulty will evidently arise in disposing of the natives, or inducing them to remove to any other part of the country.  The slovenly modes of cultivation in use, comparatively unproductive as they are, have yet the merit of requiring little or no expenditure of money in wages; the Indians receiving a bare support beyond what they can steal, and then only during the summer.  Wretched as this system is, it would be difficult to eradicate it from a race so    

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wedded to old habits and ideas.  The class of extensive Spanish proprietors is however, destined to be of short duration.  The titles to their enormous possessions, which, under the imbecile administration of the Mexican laws, passed unexamined or overlooked, are now to be inquired into, and many held originally merely by sufferance, will undoubtedly be rejected.  But a more certain, and, perhaps, equally speedy agent is at work.  Before the “breaking out of the mines,” they possessed very little actual money.  Immense herds of wild cattle, and bands of horses, constituted their wealth.  Hides, for which the former were slaughtered in vast numbers, furnished a means of barter, and were, in fact, the currency of the country. 1.  A few acres of the rich soil in the valleys, barely scratched with a crooked log, produced their barley, melons, and vegetables; and they were fortunate when their Indian serfs left them even a sufficiency of these.  The discovery of the hidden riches of the country, for the most part, added noting to their prosperity.  The toil required to develop them was foreign to their habits, and although the prices of what they could sell were enormously increased, necessities before unknown were at once introduced among them.  The foresight of the newcomers, on the other hand, early led them to the acquisition of lands, and a few thousand dollars in money was a temptation too great for a Californian to resist.  Ranch after ranch has thus been parted with to those more industrious or more sagacious; without counting the acres from which the hardier race has, by main force and obstinacy, shouldered its former claimants.  Now that these, by a superior cultivation and greater labor, can undersell the Spaniard in all the productions of the soil, this ruin, and that not far distant, is certain.  A sentiment of pity may lead us to commiserate the destiny of the ancient proprietor; but we cannot lament those occurrences which promise to convert an obscure province into a powerful State; or waste many tears upon the race which, grasping such vast possessions, was too indolent to nurture the agricultural wealth of the land, and had too little enterprise even to find the mineral that glittered at its feet. 2.

Tuesday, Aug 12^th. – The Santa Rosa plains, here about a mile and a half in width, a short distance beyond widen out, connecting with the Petaloma valley, and extending westward toward Bodega for about twelve miles.  A heavy sea-fog, which lingered on the plains throughout the morning, prevented our seeing them beyond a short distance; but the general character is similar to that of the Sonoma valley.  The soil, though rich, bakes in the sun, cracking to the depth of several inches, and receiving the plough only during the wet season.  The road, which at this time was good, wound along foot-hills, coming down from the right, and was shaded by oaks, here thickly scattered, from whose branches long festoons of moss depended.  Five and a quarter miles beyond the Santa Rosa ranch, we came to that of Mrs. West, the San Miguel, situated like the first upon a small creek running into Russian river.  The usual size of these estates in this part of California , appears to be from six to nine leagues of land; the league containing 5000 varas square, of thirty-three inches the vara.  Around this, as elsewhere, we saw swarms of Indians idling about, or perched on high platforms of poles and bush, keeping away the crows, apparently less

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prospecting[1] parties were unfavorable.  Several Indians, among them some of our acquaintances of yesterday, came into camp.  They were very dirty in person, and equally so in their habits; in disposition amiable and thievish.  An attempt to collect the tribe proved futile; nor would it have been of any service except for the purpose of enumeration, as we could make them understand nothing, their language differing wholly from those above. 25  They are said to be of a different tribe from the one so much dreaded by the valley Indians, but are probably of the same race.  I endeavored in vain to get from them the names of articles at hand, parts of the body, &c., as they either could not or would not understand the object of the inquiry; nor was our Clear Lake Indian more successful after his method.  We soon got tried of these gentry, as they did not render themselves useful, and required too much watching.

     Our camp was a very pretty one, the little prairie being level and rich, and encircled by a magnificent redwood forest.  One tree near the tents I measured, and fount it to be fifty-two feet in circumference, at four or five feet from the ground, and this although the bark and a portion of the wood were burned away.  It was still erect and alive at the top, notwithstanding the interior had been hollowed out to the height of probably eighty feet, and the smoke was even yet escaping from a hole in the side.

The diameter, measured through a chasm at the bottom, was eighteen feet.  Another, likewise much burnt, measured forty-nine feet in circumference, at five feet from the ground.  The stump of a group rising from one root was twenty-two feet ten inches across.  Those above mentioned were single trees, and without swell, the measurements given being he fair size of the shaft.  Colonel M’Kee measured a fallen truck near camp, which was three hundred and twenty-five feet in length, though not of extraordinary thickness.  Larger trees than this are known to exist, but none were noticed by ourselves.  Their shafts, often disposed in groups, rise to a vast height free from limbs, and their foliage is delicate and feathery.  The bark is of an ash color, very thick, but not rough; the branches small in proportion, and the leaves resemble those of the hemlock rather than the cedar.  The wood, however, is like that of the latter tree, and of a red color.  It splits very readily, so much so, that the Indians, without the use of iron, get out immense planks for their huts.  In a manufactured state, it is unsurpassed for shingles, ceiling, and weather-boarding.  The redwood appears to belong exclusively to the coast region; nowhere, it is believed, at least in northern California, extending inland more than twenty-five or thirty miles, and it does not reach a more northern latitude than the parallel of 42 (degree).

     Sunday, Sept. 7^th. – Our route to-day led down the bed of the river, crossing it some twenty times, and only occasionally turning into the woods.  Some ten miles from camp we reached the junction of the South fork with the main Eel river, which had

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previously received other considerable branches.  The two, at this time, however, contained nearly the same quantity of water.  Below, the bed of the river is much wider, consisting as before of sand and coarse gravel, or large rounded pebbles, of every variety of color, and intersected with quartz, over which it spread, being fordable almost anywhere.  In winter, however, both streams bring down immense quantities of water, the drainage of a vast mountain region.  No falls occur in their course, or rapids of importance, and the salmon ascends far toward their sources.  With the exception of the valleys already mentioned, and, perhaps, two or three others upon other branches, all of them too distant to be valuable, Eel river may, above this point, be considered as destitute of arable land; but should hereafter the wants of California demand, it affords facilities for a lumber trade of the first importance.

     Near the forks, we met a canoe, the first seen on our journey.  It was a dug-out, square at both ends, and sufficiently rude and clumsy.  The river was now filled with stakes, driven into the sand at pretty regular intervals, to which the Indians fasten baskets of wicker-work to take the eels, and which at certain seasons, it abounds, and which have given their name to the stream. 26  These, smoked and dried, constitute a principal article of food among the natives.

     Monday, Sept. 8^th. – We pursued our route down river.  Except two small prairies, the banks afforded no open land till near the close of our day’s march.  Bluffs of sandstone occurred here and there, apparently resembling that in the Coast range of Oregon , and bearing fossils similar to those at the mouth of the Columbia .  About fourteen miles from camp we reached “Van Dusen’s Fork,” a branch coming in from the east.  Its bed was nearly as wide as that of the main river; and though an inconsiderable stream at the time, it is said, during the freshets, to supply about half as much water as the other.  The two united were now about fifty yards in width; but when flooded are some six hundred yards across, and very deep.

     This, the last large branch of Eel river, we are told heads with the Mad river; a stream entering the coast above Humboldt bay, and, with the south fork of the Trinity, in the Sacramento range of mountains.  It resembles in general character the other eastern branches.  Some prairie land occurs some fifteen or twenty miles above its mouth; but the greater part of its course is through mountains, except that on the upper waters, as is generally the case on the western slope of that chain, are rolling hills, wooded with oak, and affording good pasturage.  A short distance above its junction with the main river, the open country commences on both, and extends to the mouth.  This point is distant about twelve or fourteen miles above the entrance of Eel river into the sea.  The tide backs up to it, and at low stages renders the water brackish to within four miles.  Below the forks the river is crooked, generally covering  

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a wide space with sand and gravel.  We encamped on the northern bank, about half a mile from the main stream.  Our march was fifteen miles.

          Tuesday, Sept .9^th. – As it was intended to remain in this neighborhood for some days, in order to recruit the animals, and hold a council with the Indians of the lower Eel river and of Humboldt bay , the party moved this morning in search of a suitable camp.  About a mile out, the road ascended a high table prairie, exceedingly fertile, watered with springs, and well timbered.  Here quite a settlement had been made; a number of houses built, or in the course of construction, and a considerable quantity of land enclosed, and under cultivation.  Some crops of potatoes, planted late in the season, looked well; others were in bloom, or even just out of the ground; but the owners seemed to have no fear of their not reaching maturity.  We were informed that rain had fallen occasionally during the summer, and that the same was the case last year; and the appearance of the vegetation indicated its frequency, as compared with the valley of the Sacramento .  Some six miles from our starting place, we again struck the river, and followed it down, encamping a short distance off, upon a small branch, which we named “Communion Creek.” – This camp was situated about eight miles from our last, as far from the sea, and twelve from the town of Humboldt .  We here remained until the 15^th.

          Several of the neighboring settles visited the camp soon after our arrival, and we learned that there were, including those on the south side of the river, about thirty.  Preparations were made to call in the Indians; but unfortunately only persons who spoke the language with any facility were absent.  One or two others could barely communicate with them on a few subjects; but too short a time had elapsed since the arrival of the whites generally to have created any considerable intercourse.  Still we were able to gather some particulars.  The tribes on the coast from Cape Mendocino to Mad river speak substantially the same language, though the dialect of the Bay differs from that lower down.  How far back this tongue extends we had no means of ascertaining.  On Van Dusen’s fork it constantly varies, so that they with difficulty understand the others.  From the Indian wife of a settler on Eel river, I managed to procure some words, afterwards corrected and increased by another, which will be found among the vocabularies.  No resemblance, as will be seen, exists between this and the Russian river languages; and, in fact, the appearance and habits of the Indians indicate a different race.  As in all the others noticed on this coast the F is wanting; and the Indians supply its place in pronouncing English names with the letter P.  Unlike the Oregon and some of the California tongues, however, this contains the R, in which respect it is like those of the Klamath.  No attempt could be made towards learning its construction; and there was much difficulty in obtaining even the words with certainty, owing to the indistinctness with which they pronounce; the first and last syllable being often hardly articulate.  I noticed that

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several words from the “Jargon” or trade language of Oregon were in use, undoubtedly obtained from Hudson ’s Bay trappers. 27.  Such is the word “ma-witch,” a deer, by them applied to all kinds of meat, as well as to the animal, though they have a corresponding name of their own.  The word “pappoose,” too, has wandered from its Atlantic home, to become a familiar one on the lips of this race, long after those have passed away to whom it was vernacular.  The name given to this people by their neighbors is Wee-yot, and Eel river is know by the same.

          As salmon were abundant, the Indians were all fat.  They are generally repulsive in countenance as well as filthy in person.  The men, like those in the mountains, wore a deer-skin robe over the shoulder; but evidently not for purposes of decency.  The women were usually naked to the waist, wearing round the loins the short petticoat of fringe.  This dress, in its various modifications of fashion and change of material, from dressed deer-skins, often beautifully worked and ornamented, to a rude skirt of grass, or the inner bark of the cedar or redwood, prevails over an extensive country and among widely different tribes.  The close round cap of basket-work, is likewise their ordinary head-dress.  These Indians have as many wives as they please, or more probably, as they can purchase, and allow themselves the privilege of shooting such as they are tired of; a method of divorce that obviates all difficulty as to subsequent maintenance. 28.  One of the whites here, in “breaking in” his squaw to her household duties, had occasion to beat her several times.  She complained of this to the tribe, and they informed him that he should not do so; that if he was dissatisfied he must kill her and get another.  As this advice came from her brother, it is fair to suppose that there was no offence to the family in such a procedure.  The woman are said to be chaste, and especially to admit no intercourse with the whites except on permanent conditions; a peculiarity which, as elsewhere, will probably disappear with the advance of civilization.  Both men and women generally crop their hair very short all over the head, giving it much the appearance of a well-worn blacking-brush.  The former pluck their beards out, but leave the hair on the rest of the person.  Their heads are disproportionately large; their figures, though short, strong and well developed.  Both sexes tattoo; the men on their arms and breasts; the women from inside the under lip down to and beneath the chin.  The extent of this disfigurement indicates to a certain extent, the age and condition of the person, whether married or single.

          As far as regards their number, we could not ascertain it with any exactness.  As usual, it was much overrated in general report, and it is probable that those on the Eel river below Van Dusen’s fork, and around the bay, fall short of five hundred.  Their food consists principally of fish, eels, shell-fish, and various seeds, which, like those in the southern valleys, they collect after burning the grass.  A small species of sunflower furnishes a very abundant supply of these last.  The sallal, salmon, and berries, hazel-nuts, &c., also abound.  Occasionally the more enterprising snare the elk, which are very numerous.  They do not appear to be warlike, or disposed to aggression,  

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although one or two murders were committed when the whites began to come in.  It appeared to us singular that at first they would not eat beef; but so few cattle had been brought here that the settlers used more themselves, and had probably spread the idea that it was not good, in order to save their stock.  We found, however, that they readily learned the lesion when an opportunity was afforded them.  The grizzly bear, which is found here in great numbers, they will not eat, because, as they say, it eats them, the lex talionis not applying in this case.  The principal diseases noticed, were sore eyes and blindness, consumption, and a species of leprosy; not, however, the result of syphilis, which had never been introduced.  From their own accounts, their numbers have been greatly thinned by a disease, from the description appearing to have been gastritis.  Of the religious notions of these people nothing could be learned.  They bury instead of burning their dead.

          During our stay I devoted several days to an examination of the country, though a very complete one was impracticable for want of guides and facilities of transportation.  The best portion is apparently that lying near the mouth of Van Dusen’s fork, on either side of the margin stream.  Lower down, the land on the right bank, with the exception of a narrow strip along the river, consists of rolling hills, covered with low shrubs, extending to the end of “Table Bluff,” a promontory between the mouth of Eel river and the bay, and reaching back to the redwoods, behind the town of Humboldt.  The soil of these hills is excellent, but the difficulty of breaking them up, the want of timber on the ground, and of running water, has hitherto prevented claims being taken there.  On the south, what may be called the valley of Eel river is bounded by the Coast range, which terminates at Cape Mendocino .  These mountains run back, in an easterly direction, some eighteen miles.  They present a fine grazing country on the slopes, and good situations for farms at their base.  The bottom land on the river is low and level, and in width averages perhaps five miles.  Much of this is, however, covered with thickets of willows, &c., and is subject to floods in the rainy season.  Those tracts above the reach of the freshets are generally of fern prairie, rich, but not easily subdued.  In approaching the coast, the country is much cut up with sloughs, communicating with the river, and near the mouth consists of salt marsh and tide-land.  The extent of the whole is not far from twenty miles square.  For farming purposes, as carried on in the northern States, such as the production of green crops, the available portion of this is admirably calculated.  On our return to the bay, later in the season, we were shown vegetables, particularly potatoes, turnips, beets, &c., of the finest quality, and of enormous size; some of the potatoes weighing from three to four pounds each.  The climate, as has been mentioned, is much more moist than that of southern California , or the Sacramento valley.  It is, however, apparently healthy.  The winders are mild; snow never lying for any length of time, except in the mountains.  Game is excessively abundant, including deer, elk, bears; and all the fall and winter, ducks, geese, brandt, cranes, and other water-fowl.

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          Partly from the difficulty of communicating with the Indians, and partly from the jealousy with which each little band seems to view the rest, the efforts to collect them from the country around proved abortive, a few only visiting the camp from the nearest villages.  It was an additional drawback, that the head chief of Eel river, to whom the whites have given the name of “Coon-skin,” and who is said to possess considerable influence, was sick.  To those who came in, small presents, together with hard bread, and beef, were distributed; but they could not be made to understand the object of our visit, and clearly remained to the last, in doubt whether the agent was simply a philanthropic individual, possessed of more red flannel shirts and cotton pocket-handkerchiefs than he knew what to do with, and who therefore indulged in the benevolent amusement of giving them away; or one who had some designs upon them, and was fishing for Indians with that particular bait.  It being considered advisable, however, to bring in as many as possible, in order to produce an impression favorable to future efforts, I went down the river in a canoe, accompanied by Mr. Duperru, a gentleman of Humboldt, and Mr. Robinson, with three Indians, visiting the different rancherias on our way.  These were very numerous, but consisting  generally of only two or three families.  Their appearance, as well as that of their inhabitants, was wretched, and we found sickness to prevail everywhere, the disease being apparently consumption.  No inducement that we could offer would bring the Indians together, their dislike of one another amounting almost to hostility; each village assuring us that the next one was very bad, and dissuading us from going on. 29.  Indeed, our own crew could hardly be forced to land at some places.

          We descended as far as the tide-lands, a couple of miles from the mouth, where we had a fine view of the nearer, or “False Cape Mendocino,” with its terraced sides.  The banks of the river, to this point, were generally covered with thickets, occasionally interspersed with small prairies, bearing an enormous growth of fern.  We attempted in one place to travel on shore; but after funning out an old trail, lost ourselves in the rank weeds, and were glad to bet back to our boat.  Our Indians proved worthless boatmen, and the canoe leaking badly, we returned without going to the entrance.  The river empties into the ocean through a sort of lagoon, made by the union of a number of large sloughs, or tide creeks, which intersect the low lands.  A communication by one of these exists to within a mile of Humboldt bay , and with but a little labor could be readily established throughout.  The depth  of water on the bar is sufficient to admit, the smaller class of vessels.  In fact, a schooner, called the “Jacob Ryerson,” entered it in the spring of 1850, and proceeded up some miles; but the narrowness of the entrance, and the fact that the sea, except in very calm weather, breaks across it, will prevent its becoming available to any extent.  The natural outlet for the produce of the country is, and will continue to be, the bay.

          About nine o’clock in the evening, we reached the village from which we took the canoe, and stopped for the night, making our suppers of smoked eels, a cup of coffee,  

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and of course a pipe of tobacco.  These Indians, by the way, do not smoke; a glaring evidence of ignorance and debasement, to remedy which, it is to be hoped the earliest efforts of their future guardians will be directed!  The eels proved excessively fat and oily, and seem to be a more favorite article of food, with them at least, than the salmon.  The river bed near their villages, was everywhere filled with stakes, to which the eel-pots are attached; and the lodges farther down had, in some places, erected strong weirs of well-driven posts, to sustain nets.  The band with whom we were encamped appeared to be among the laziest o the race, and even they had an abundant supply.  We had brought with us our blankets, as a usual precaution, and now spread them on the sand, not far from the juts.  A nearly full moon shone down upon us, a good fire blazed at our feet, and we sat till a late hour, drying our boots, and listening to the wailings of a new-born savage, or watching with humane interest the semi-occasional fights of a  swarm of dogs belonging to the village.  Two imps, of about ten and fourteen years of age, persisted in giving us their company, entertaining us with information which might have proved valuable had we understood it, and finally amusing themselves by gambling for the shirts we had given them, their only garments.  The largest, of course, won, but was magnanimous enough to permit the loser to wear his lost property for the night; and both tucking up the skirts, that the genial warmth of the fire might reach them without interruption, stretched themselves on the damp sand, and slept like innocence itself.  The next morning, as it was Sunday, we directed a general washing of faces throughout the village; a ceremony evidently of rare occurrence, and which happily settled a question before agitated in our camp.  The representative of the Van Dusen’s Fork Indians, who was present, was not darker, but only dirtier than the rest.

          Sunday, Sept.14^th. – As it had become evident that nothing could be effected with the Indians at present, for want of interpreters, it was concluded to break up camp the next day, and proceed on. 30.  With a view to the prevention of difficulty hereafter in the selection of a reserve, Colonel M’Kee decided upon setting apart provisionally, a tract sufficient for the tribes inhabiting Eel river, Humboldt bay, and generally the central portion of his district, - The reservation could at this time be made without embracing the Indians themselves.  The tract was selected after obtaining the best information practicable, and comprised the country between Eel river and the Mendocino range, extending from the coast up to a point opposite to our camp.  This it was believed would furnish sufficient agricultural land, together with the fisheries upon which they chiefly depend.  An arrangement was also entered into, with a Mr. Charles A. Robinson, one of the settlers, on Eel river, to plant with potatoes a few acres of ground for the benefit of such Indians as could be induce to labor upon it.

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not been as enormously rich as at points on the tributaries of the Sacramento , but they cover a very extensive region, afford a fair renumeration to labor, and will, apparently, be of considerable duration.  The details of the subject will be hereafter given, in speaking of various points.  At present it is sufficient to say, that the metal appears to be distributed, in greater or less quantities, throughout all these mountains; as it is found in most of the small streams, as well as the main rivers.  The quantity is, however, greatest high up; and the apparent source of the most abundant supply is the group of granitic peaks at the head of Scott’s, Salmon, and the Trinity.  Approaching the coast, the amount diminishes or disappears.  With regard to the origin of the gold at what is called “Gold Bluff,” a high cliff of indurated sand and clay, upon the coast between Trinidad and the mouth of the Klamath, as well as at some other points on the Pacific, the accounts given of it all point to the Klamath.  The metal, which is in very fine particles, is found on the beach only after north-westerly storms; and it is said that different objects, among them a human body, known to have been lost in the river, have at various times been drifted ashore, indicating the general set of the current.  The extreme comminution of the dust is conclusive as to the distance from which it comes; and the presence of iron sand is accounted for, by its existence, in ore, upon the small river in Pelican bay.

          The name of the Klamath or Tlamath, belonging to the tribes on the lake where the river rises, is not known among those farther down; nor could I learn that any other name for the stream exists among them then that derived from relative position.  Thus, at the forks, the Weits-peks call the river below Poh-lik, signifying down; and that above,

Peh-tsik, or up; giving, moreover, the same name to the population, in speaking of them collectively.  Three distinct tribes, speaking different languages, occupy its banks between the sea and the mouth of the Shaste, of which the lowest extends up to Bluff creek, a few miles above the forks.  Of these there are, according to our information, in all, thirty-two villages.  It was the opinion of some, who were acquainted with the river, that each village would average nine houses, of ten souls to the house; but this estimate, which would give a population of nearly three thousand, and a village to about every mile and a half on the river, seems clearly too large.  It is probable that some are but summer residences; and a very liberal conjecture of the number of the inhabitants, would be fifteen hundred. 35.  The names of the principal villages may be useful in determining analogies.  They are the Weits-pek (at the forks), Wah-sherr, Kai-petl, Morai-uh,

Noht-scho, Meh-teh, Schre-gon, Yau-terrh, Pec-quan, Kanweh, Wauh-tecq, Sche-perrh, Oiyotl, Nai-a-gutl, Schaitl, Hopaiuh, Rek-qua, and Weht’l-qua; the two last at the mouth of the river. 36.  The Weits-pek village, on the north bank at this point, as well as the two smaller ones, situated respectively between the forks, and opposite on the south side, 37. were burnt during the last spring, in consequence of some murders committed in the neighborhood; and, at the time of our visit, had not been rebuilt, the people living in temporary huts.  The first contained  

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about thirty houses, and was one of the most important of all.  The same was the case with the Kai-petl, or, as it was called by the whites, Capel village, ten miles below.  There was formerly a ferry there also, at  which the trail then generally used from Trinidad, crossed; but the jealousy of the Indians being in some manner aroused, they attacked the house, killing four persons, and their town was therefore destroyed, 38. and several of them shot.

          Upon the Trinity, or Hoopah, below the entrance of the south fork or O-tah-wei-a-ket, there are said to be eleven ranches, the Oke-noke, Agaraits, Up-le-goh, Ollep-pauh’l-kah-teht’l and Pepht-soh, all lying in the little valley referred to; and the Has-lintah, A-hel-tah,So-kea-keit, Tash-huan-ta, and Wits-puk above it. 39.  A twelfth, the Me-yemma, now burnt, was situated just above “New,” or “ Arkansas river .”  The total number of inhabitants belonging to these, is probably six hundred.  They differ in no respect, except in language, from the lower Klamaths.  Of the Indians above the forks on the main Trinity, or those on the south fork, we obtained no distinct information, except that they speak distinct languages and are both excessively hostile to the whites.  The latter are described as large and powerful men, of a swarthier complexion, fierce and intractable, and are considered by the mountaineers as of another race, agreeing more with the wild tribes inhabiting the western base of the Sacramento range, and in the neighborhood of a large lake reported to lie there.  The lower Trinity tribe is, as well as the river itself, known by the Klamaths by the name of Hoopah; of which, however, I could not learn the signification.  A vocabulary of their language is appended; but it cannot be as altogether perfect, being obtained through the means of the Klamath interpreter.

          Of the Indians of Redwood creek, called by the whites Bald Hill Indians, little was learned, and none of them could be induced to come in.  They are termed Oruk by the Coast Indians, and Teho-lo-lah 40. by the Weits-peks.  The general opinion is, that they arm ore nearly allied to the Trinity than to the Klamath tribes.  The names of some of their bands, as given me by an Indian, were, commencing at the coast, the Cherr’h-quah, Ot-teh-petl, Oh-nah, Oh-pah, and Rouge-choh. 41.

          Still less is known of the Indians to the north of the Klamath; but we were informed that the first tribe on the coast were a warlike band called Tol-e-wahs, of whom the Klamaths stand in some awe.  Above them on Smith’s river are the Eenahs or Eenaghs, and on the head waters of that stream the Sians or Siahs.  All these are said to speak different languages, or more probably dialects.  Of the first I obtained a few words from and old Klamath, but they are hardly to be relied on.

          With regard to their form of government, at least that of the Klamath and Trinity tribes, the mow-ce-ma, or head of each family, is master of his own house, and there is a sci-as-lau, or chief, in every village.  There are also head chiefs to the different tribes; but whether their power has definite limits, is confined to peace or war, or extends to both, seems very doubtful.  It certainly is insufficient to control the

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relations of the several villages, or keep down the turbulence of individuals.  The courage and energy of a warrior, as we saw, often gives greater influence than the rank of a head chief.

          The lodges of these Indians are generally very well built; being made of boards riven from redwood or fir, and of considerable size, often reaching twenty feet square.  Their roofs are pitched over a ridge-pole, and sloping each way; the ground being usually excavated to the depth of three or four feet, and a pavement of smooth stones laid in front.  The cellars of the better class are also floored and walled with stone.  The door always consists of a round hole in a heavy plank, just sufficient to admit the body; and is formed with a view to exclude the bears, who in winter make occasional and very unwelcome visits. 42.  The graves, which are in the immediate neighborhood of the houses, exhibit very considerable taste, and a laudable care.  The dead are inclosed in rude coffins, formed by placing four boards around the body, and covered with earth to dome depth; a heavy plank, often supported by upright head and foot stones, is laid upon the top; or stones are built up into a wall, about a foot above the ground, and the top flagged with others.  The graves of the chiefs are surrounded by neat wooden palings; each pale ornamented with a feather from the tail of a bald eagle.  Baskets are usually staked down by the side, according to the wealth or popularity of the individual; and sometimes other articles, for ornament or use, are suspended over them. 43.

          The funeral ceremonies occupy three days, during which the soul of the deceased is in danger from O-mah-a, 44. or the devil.  To preserve it from this peril, a fire is kept up at the grave, and friends of the deceased howl round it, to scare away the demon.  Should they not be successful in this, the soul is carried down the river; subject, however, to redemption by Peh-ho-wan on payment of a big knife.  After the expiration of the three days it is all well with them.  Such, at least, is their belief, as related to us by residents, so far as could be gathered from the Indians themselves.  A qualification must probably be made on the score of incorrect translation and misunderstanding.  In person these people are far superior to any that we met below; the men being larger, more muscular, and with countenances denoting greater force and energy of character, as well as intelligence.  Indeed, they approach rather to the races of the plains, than to the wretched “diggers” of the greater part of California .  Two young men in particular, a young chief and his brother, from a neighboring village on the Trinity, were taller than the majority of whites, superbly formed, and never noble in feature.  The superiority, however, was especially manifested in the women, many of whom were exceedingly pretty; having large almond-shaped eyes, sometimes of a hazel color, and with the red showing through the cheeks.  Their figures were full, their chests ample, and the younger ones had well-shaped busts, and rounded limbs, graces all profusely displayed, as their only dress was the fringed petticoat, or at most, a deer-skin robe thrown back over the shoulders, in addition.  

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The petticoat with the wealthier, or perhaps more industrious, was an affair on which great taste and labor were expended.  It was of dressed deer-skin; the upper edge turned over and embroidered with colored grasses, the lower cut into a deep fringe, reaching nearly to the knee, and ornamented with bits of sea-shell, beads, and buttons.  Sometimes an apron, likewise of heavy fringe, made of braided grass, the ends finished off with the nuts of the pine, hung down in front, and rattled as they walked. 45.  These dames, though bearing a high, and apparently well deserved reputation for morals, were exceedingly social; coming up in bands to our camp, to beg for beads and trinkets, and playing off a thousand airs of wild coquetry.  Indeed, for powers of wheedling and coaxing they are unsurpassed; and when a rustic beauty established herself beside one, her plump arms resting on his knees, and her large eyes rolled up to his, the stock in trade of the victim was pretty sure to suffer.  They made themselves perfectly at home; bringing their basket-work, and sitting round the tents, or romping under the bay trees; their jolly laughter ringing through the woods, and their squeals echoing far and wide, as some mischievous young savage pinched a tempting spot, or hugged them in his tawny arms.  The manner of these Indians towards one another was generally caressing, the young men lolling about in pairs, and the girls sitting with their arms round each other.  In justice and truth, however, it must be added that this Californian Arcadia was not all sunshine, even during the halcyon days of treaty-making, and that various habits and customs indulged in, were the reverse of inviting.

          The dress of the men consists, generally, of a pair of deer-skins with the hair on, stitched together.  Sometimes, however, a noted hunter wears a couple of cougar skins, the long tails trailing behind him; and other again, on state occasions, display a breech-clout of several small skins, sewed into a belt or waistband.  Their moccasins are peculiar, having soles of several thicknesses of leather.  They are not as skilful in the preparation of dressed skins as the Oregon Indians, and use of those dressed on both sides is mostly confined to the women.  Their bows are short, and strongly backed with sinews, which are put on by means of a glue extracted from fish, and they are often neatly painted.  The arrows are well made, the points of stone or iron being secured to a movable piece fitting into the shaft.  Among the skins used for quivers, I noticed the otter, wild-cat, fisher, fawn, grey fox, and others.  The skins of a species of raccoon, of the skunk, and a small animal called the cat fox, were also employed for different purposes.  In dressing their hair, which the men wear clubbed behind, considerable taste is sometimes shown; wreaths of oak or bay leaves, or the broad tails of the grey squirrel, being twisted round the head.  Their pipes were made of wood, generally eight or ten inches long, and tapering from a broad muzzle to the mouth-piece.  They are held erect when smoking, and the same species of wild tobacco is used that was noticed at Clear Lake .  Both sexes pierce the nose, and wear some kind of ornament in it; the favorite one being the shell known as the “haiqua,” 46.  

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among the fur traders.  This, under the name of the “ali-qua chick,” or Indian money, is more highly valued among then than any other article.  Their canoes are fashioned like those of the bay and of Eel river, blunt at both ends, with a small projection in the stern, for a seat; and they manage them with wonderful dexterity, by means of a sort of half pole, have paddle.  The women are adepts in basket-making of various kinds, as well as the making of thread and twine from a species of grass. 47.  They also manufacture a very pretty kind of narrow ribbon, by interweaving grass and thread.  In this, as well as in their basket-work, they use several colored dyes, apparently of vegetable origin.  The same round basket-cap noticed before, is worn by the Klamath women, figures of different colors and patterns being worked into it.  They tattoo the underlip and chin in the manner remarked at Eel river; the young girls in faint lines, which are deepened and widened as they become older, and in the married women are extended up above the corners of the mouth.  It is somewhat singular, that the Mohohoes and others, on the lower waters of the Colorado , tattoo in the same fashion.  The children are carried in baskets suspended from the head, after the manner shown in the sketch.  Their persons are usually clean, as they use both the sweat-house and cold-bath constantly.

          The different bands, even of the same tribes, if not at actual war, are exceedingly jealous of each other, and it was with great difficulty that they could be prevailed upon to convene from any distance, or kept together when brought in.  They have a reputation for treachery, as well as revengefulness; are thievish, and much disposed to sulk if their whims are not in every way  indulged.  Whether this character is stronger with them than with any other tribe, is, however, doubtful. 48.  Deception is always one of the shields of the weak or ignorant; and as to dishonesty, it must be remembered that the articles in commonest use among the whites, and often improperly exposed, are the very ones which have the greatest value in the eyes of the savage.  An axe, a blanket, a large knife, or tin pan, are of almost incalculable value to him; and it is not, therefore, to be wondered at, that the temptation to steal is seldom resisted, or that the ingenuity displayed in doing so is very great.  What capacity they may hereafter show for civilization, can hardly be foreseen; but there appears to be no greater obstacle than existed in some of the Oregon Indians, who are now partially domesticated, and who, under the steadier and better directed auspices, would have been much more so.  The objects of the Hudson ’s Bay Company, the best of their earliest instructors, tended rather to make those people useful servants in their own peculiar occupation, than cultivators of the soil; while the missions failed almost entirely.  The Indians of the Klamath and its vicinity afford a field for a new experiment.  Their country furnishes food of different kinds, and a quantity sufficient to supply their absolute wants.  Game, fish, and acorns are abundant.  Improvident, however, as are all savages, they have their season of scarcity; and the climate of their country renders clothing and shelter requisite.  It is through their wants that the desire of

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civilization can most readily be excited.  Articles of dress and of food, at first mere objects of fancy or luxury, speedily becomes absolute necessaries; and an inducement to labor for these, especially when the obvious fruits of their industry are directly applied to their own use, arises as they become accustomed to them.

          Dependence upon the whites follows invariably the discontinuance of their own habits.  The bow and arrows are laid aside, and the blanket takes the place of the deer-skin.  The value of their own productions first, and the wages of their labor afterwards, become essential to procure those articles which they cannot manufacture or supply.  Thus the Indians of the Willamette valley, when urged to remove to another place where they should be free from molestation by the whites, absolutely refused; saying that they should starve, that they had lost their old modes of subsistence, and were obliged to work for a living.  Such a result would of course not be that of a day; but a persistence in the system would undoubtedly bring it about here also.  The education of the savage should first be directed to the improvement of his physical condition.  With the generation which is already grown, at least, conversion to Christianity, or, as it frequently attempted, the inculcation of the peculiar doctrines of some particular sect, is impossible.  The millions that have been expended upon this object in the past ages, have produced no more lasting impression than the tread of the moccasin on the sea-shore.  These Indians already afford one great point, by means of which, the influence of civilization can be exerted in their fixed habitations.  If collected as occasion may offer, and its advantage be shown to them, upon reservations, where their fisheries can still be carried on, where tillage of the soil shall be gradually introduced, and where the inducements to violence or theft will be diminished or checked, they may possibly be made both prosperous and useful to the country.  They have as yet none of the vices which so generally follow intercourse with the whites.  They have never acquired a taste for spirits, and their ideas of chastity; as well as their remote situation, have hitherto excluded disease.  So far as regards treaties between them and the whites, however, it may well be doubted whether, even if made in good faith, they can be kept, unless in the neighborhood of small military posts, and under the surveillance of military authority.  Broken up into small bands or villages, each having its separate chief, and with no common controlling head, there is no influence which can be made to reach all the individuals of any tribe.

          We too often give a general character to savage races, derived from a few, and those most probably the worst of their nation; forgetting that there may be as great diversity of disposition among them as among ourselves.  Thus the majority may be well disposed, and yet implicated in crime by the acts of a very few; for knowing by experience the indiscriminate manner in which punishment is meted out, they are driven in self-defense to abet or defend them.  But besides this, a constant source of provocation is to be feared from such of the whites as, transiently passing

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through their country, offer them insult and violence, without, perhaps, endangering themselves, but insuring revenge and retaliation upon others, and probably quite innocent persons.  A population drawn together, like that of California, necessarily contains reckless and unprincipled characters, too many of who regard the life of an Indian as of no more account that that of a dog; and who, in murdering them without provocation, five cause for the reprisals which have sacrificed many innocent lives and brought about expensive wars and barbarous devastation.  That a protective military force should consist of regular troops there can be no question; for although volunteers may be more effective in revenging outrages committed, they can never afford security against their occurrence, and sometimes commit greater ones themselves.  The mountainous and broken character of this country does not offer scope for cavalry in its usual form; but a light-armed force, especially if consisting of riflemen, provided with mules, would be highly effectual.  The season for active operations is the winter, when flight to the mountains is impossible, and where the Indians are all concentrated in their villages upon the river.  Troops moving upon the usual trails, would, if they did not reach the bands sought for, drive them among other and hostile tribes, who would soon cut them off.  But it is as a preventive rather than an offensive force, that they would be needed.  Possessing no fire-arms, these Indians are too much in awe of the whites not to remain quiet in the face of a permanent post; while, on the other hand, a source of trouble arising from needless provocation can thus only be put an end to.  The proper strategic point for such a post on this frontier, is clearly at, or near, the forks of the Klamath or Trinity, where the principal trails from the coast to and up these rivers pass, and which commands the country lying below, that upon both rivers above, and also the Redwood, upon which a numerous and trouble-some bard are settled.  Its supplies could be derived from a depot established on Humboldt bay , or at Trinidad , and brought up by pack-mules.  The ground immediately at the forks, though well enough adapted for buildings, does not afford the necessary pasturage for animals; but a small valley on the Trinity a few miles above, and included in the reservation made for the tribes, would give every necessary facility, as well as land for cultivation. 49.

          In leaving the subject, one remark seems not out of place.  The policy early adopted by the Hudson’s Bay Company, (who, better than any other body or individuals, succeeded in the management of the Indians with whom they came in contact,) was to break down the power and influence of petty chiefs, by placing in the hands of one man of energetic character, and secured to their interests, the supreme control of the whole tribe; governing entirely through him, raising him to the rank of a white man, and giving him the means of supporting the dignity and state of which the savage is so fond.  Such was their course with Com-comly, and with Case-nau; and such should be adopted in the treatment of the wild and turbulent nations of the Klamath and Trinity.  

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          Dr. Durkee, who owns the ferry at the forks, and who was to act as interpreter, was absent at our arrival, and did not return for several days.  In the mean time, Mr. Thompson, of Gold Bluff, who had joined the party at Bloody camp, went down the river to induce the lower bands to come up; and Mr. Patterson, of Union , undertook to assemble the Trinity Indians.  Both were partially successful; but full deputations, particularly of the Pohlik-Klamath villages, could not be got together.  Some progress was, however, made in conciliation, and pretty good feeling finally established.  The Indians persisted in assuming that their burnt villages were to be paid for; 50. and were in great doubt as to the propriety of a final settlement, while they remained one life in arrears.  The chief, with great formality, displayed bone, marked on one edge with twenty-six notches, being the number of white men admitted to have been killed upon the Klamath; while the other side of it contained twenty-seven, as the number of Indians killed by the whites.  The difficulty was finally compromised by giving sixteen pairs of blankets for the extra Indian, and a squaw and child not enumerated, and furnishing four dozen axes, wherewith to rebuild their lodges. 51.  Their own jealousies, however, were the occasion of the greatest difficulty; and even after the treaty had been formally concluded, a portion of them refused to sign at the ferry, and had to be waited on at a point some distance down the river.  The treaty embraced the usual stipulations of peace with the citizens of the United States ; and provision to be made for them in a reserve.  It unfortunately happened that during our stay the weather was too unfavorable to permit a survey being made of the district proposed.  A description of this, with its natural boundaries, as laid down upon the map, was, however, obtained from the citizens present.  In general terms, it embraced the country around the forks, extending on the Klamath, from the mouth of Pine creek, to the foot of Red Cap’s bar, as it is called, a distance of some fifteen miles; and on the Trinity to John’s creek, about as far.  It embraced the valley on the latter river, before spoken of, and which is supposed to contain six or seven miles of farming land.  This latter track has always been the country of the Hoo-pahs; and at the time of our visit there were no white settlers upon any part of it, except Mr. Durkee, who kept the ferry, and who, possessing the confidence of the Indians, and speaking their language, will, no doubt, be permitted to remain.

          Thursday, Oct 9^th. – The business of the treaty being concluded, the camp broke up to-day, and the train crossed, our route lying up the opposite bank.  Since the destruction of the lower ferry, all travel on the Klamath has passed at this point, although further up many prefer the eastern side.  The ferry is managed by a scow, working on a rope suspended over the river.  The house is a log building, capable of standing against a siege, in which arrows alone are used, and covered with a huge ten which gives an additional room in the front.  The trail followed the stream, ascending and descending low, rugged points, but well made, considering the nature

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of the ground, the short space of time that it has been travelled, and the circumstances that have called it forth.  Indeed, when it is remembered that all these trails, forming as they do a net-work over this whole mountain region, have either been entirely cut out, or at least rendered passable for animals, with little more than a year; and that by men whose occupations and objects permitted no loss of time, one rather wonders at their not being worse.  The main trails have in general been made by parties interested in the various towns from which goods are forwarded, or by the packers who carry them to the mines; and the expense of exploring and laying them out has been considerable.  Much improvement could, however, be effected in all of them, both in distance and facility; as they are frequently carried over mountains, either to avoid rocky points, where a little blasting would afford a remedy, or to obtain places for observation.  A couple of miles above the forks, we reached the Hai-am-mu village, and visiting one of the lodges, found the inhabitants engaged in cooking and eating.  The meal consisted of fish and acorn porridge, made by mixing the flour in a basket, in which the water is kept boiling by means of hot stones.  Of the acorn flour they likewise make a sort of bread, which they bake in the ashes.  They had several spoons, very neatly made of bone or horn.  At this village there was a large fish-dam; a work exhibiting an extraordinary degree both in enterprise and skill.  It crossed the entire river, here about seventy-five yards wide, elbowing up stream in the deepest part.  It was built by first driving stout posts into the bed of the river, at a distance of some two feet apart, having a moderate slope, and supported from below, at intervals of ten or twelve feet, by two braces; the one coming to the surface of the water, the other reaching to the string pieces.  These last were heavy spars, about thirty feet in length, and were secured to each post by withes.  The whole dam was faced with twigs, carefully peeled, and placed so close together as to prevent the fish from passing up.  The top, at this stage of the water, was two or three feet above the surface.  The labor of constructing this work must, with the few and insufficient tools of the Indians, have been immense.  Slight scaffolds were built out below it, for which the fish are taken in scoop-nets; they also employ drag –nets, or spear them, the spear having he barb movable, and fastened to the shaft with a string, in order to afford the salmon play.  Similar dams to this exist on the Klamath, a few miles below the forks, and about fifteen above this one; and there is another upon the Trinity; thirteen or fourteen miles from its mouth. 52.  They form a frequent cause of quarrel among the bands inhabiting different parts of the rivers.  Some understanding, however, seems to exist as to opening portions of them at times, to allow the passage of fish for the supply of those above. 53.

          The salmon, which form so important an article of food to the Indian tribes inhabiting the rivers of the Pacific, are of several species.  No naturalist, that I am aware of, has examined their varieties and habits, and there are some points in regard to them, about which much dispute exists.  Seven kinds are

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usually said to visit the Columbia ; two of which, it is probable, are the bull trout and grey fin of the English waters, and another, perhaps, owes its peculiarities either to age or food.  The spring salmon, which is by far the best, is apparently identical with that of the eastern States and of Europe .  Towards fall, a darker colored kind makes its appearance, which, like the former, wends its way up such of the streams as afford sufficient water, and which is not the returning and exhausted fish.  Later still comes the hump-backed salmon.  This is hardly eatable, its flesh being dry and rank, and its appearance disgusting.  The back, as its name indicates, is protuberant, and snout is depressed over the eyes, and the jaws furnished with large hooked teeth.  Almost all the fish taken in the autumn have a diseased appearance; the skin being discolored in large blotches.  The several species found in the Columbia , seem to inhabit the Klamath likewise.  Besides the salmon, there is also the salmon trout, a beautiful fish, and excellent eating.  Of the brook trout, the only variety I have noticed, differs from that of the eastern States is having black instead of red spots, and a narrow red line extending down each side, from the gills to the tail.  The fins are also less bright than in the eastern fish.  The salmon rarely, if ever, is taken in fresh water, with the fly or other bait; though in salt water at the bay, and in the mouths of the rivers, they will sometimes bite even at salt pork.  The Indians dry them without salt, splitting them open, taking out first the backbone, next a thin slice of flesh on each side, for the whole length, leaving the skin covered with another layer.  All parts, even the head and spine, are preserved alike.

          Our march to-day, in consequence of a late start, and the distance of any grazing point above, was only five miles; the course being first north-west, and then changing to the north.  We camped opposite the high point which forms a landmark from the Bald Hills, and which give the name of Bluff Creek to a stream entering from the north-west, called by the Indians Otche-poh.  Upon the other side of the river was an Indian village, the Sehe-perrh; the first belonging to the tribe occupying the middle section of the river, and of which the Quoratein or Salmon river Indians may be considered as the type.  The grass at this camp is scanty, except at a considerable height on the mountain behind us.  

          Friday, Oct. 10^th. – About a mile and a half from camp, we reached Bluff creek, which is crossed on a bridge, erected by Mr. Durkee, and for which he has a toll license.  The creek is about ten yards wide, with steep banks, and is not fordable in the rainy season.  At this point the trail from the lower ferry comes in.  The extent of the travel on the now united routes may be judged from the fact, that since March last, 6000 mules have crossed at this place.  From the narrow ridge separating the creek and the river, we could look down on both; the latter being far below the level of the first, which has a rapid descent to the junction.  Another mile and a half brought us to what is called Big Bar, where excavations had been made to a consider-

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able extent by the miners, but which were now abandoned.  These bars, as they are called, are flats formed at the bends of the river, of boulders and sand; and it is upon them that most of the washings are carried on.  The richest deposits are usually found on the bed-rock beneath the debris, or in crevices in the strata of slate, which here lies in place.  In fine sand it cannot be obtained by mere washing, but is usually extracted by means of quicksilver.  As a general thing, however, the gold of the Klamath is coarse.  The more elevated spots are usually preferred, as they are less exposed to access of water, and the smaller bars are considered the richest.  The space allowed, by “miner’s law,” to each man, as his “claim,” is thirty feet square.  On some bars, the earth pays with considerable equality throughout; but this is unusual.  Most of them will yield from five to ten cents to the bucket; and an average of from eight to ten is good yield.  The ordinary process is for one man to dig the earth, and another to wash it; each carrying one half from the hole to the water.  To dig and wash 200 buckets is considered a fair day’s work for two men, with the common rocker.  This machine is shaped like a shallow cradle, having a movable cover of sheet-iron, pierced with holes, upon which the earth is thrown.  It is moved with one hand, while the other is employed in throwing on water.  The gravel is thrown off from the cover as I is washed, the greater part of the earth being carried away, while the gold remains in the reservoir below, from which, at the end of the day, it is taken and cleaned in a pan.  Another process of washing is by what is called a Long-tom, a trough through which a stream of water is conducted.  These, of course, are capable of producing more, with less labor, than the rocker; but their use depends on the convenience of the place, and they cannot, like the others, be easily transported.  Miners usually work in parties of two or three; but several of these are often associated together, for protection or other purposes.  Occasionally the heads of companies employ themselves in “prospecting” for good spots, while the others are at work; or in packing provisions and other necessaries from the towns to the diggings.  Many men, whose want of experience will not insure them good returns, or who want the means of supplying themselves, hire out to others, either for specified wages, or on half profits; receiving, in each case, their board. 54.

          A couple of miles beyond, we came to Red-Cap’s bar, so called from a sub-chief living there.  Here we found a trading-post, and a small party of miners at work; a portion of whom were hired for $75 per month, and their board.  The average yield was probably half an ounce a day per man.  The price of provisions varied according to circumstances; flour having lately ranged from 12 ½ to 25 cents a pound, and pork from 25 to 40 cents.

          The village contained twelve or fourteen lodges, substantially built, and commodious.  This band, the Oppegach, 55. was included in the treaty made at the ferry.  It belongs, like the rest of those above Bluff creek, to the Peh-tsik division; their language differing materially from that below the forks.  At this place, however, they are said no to use

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it in its purity; having, like other borderers, adopted words from their neighbors.  “Red-Cap,” so called from a greasy-looking woolen head-piece, with which some miner had presented him, and which ordinarily constituted his sole dress, was a short, thickset individual, with a droll countenance, reminding one of the most authentic likenesses of Santa Claus.  He is a man of considerable influence, friendly to the whites, and enjoying a high character for honesty.  An instance of his justice, coupled with a display of financial ability, was related to us, as exercised on the occasion of a gun being stolen by one of his band.  The weapon could not be found, but Red-Cap promised that it should be paid for, the price being fixed at thirty dollars.  To raise this, he imposed an excise on all salmon sold to the packers and miners, of fifty cents; which, besides the usual price in beads, was to be exacted in a “waugie chick,” or silver white man’s money.  The amount was soon raised and handed over, and the oppressive tax abated. 56.

          At this place there is a ferry, where trains bound for Salmon river usually cross, keeping up the eastern side of the Klamath.  A creek, of considerable size enters opposite the village, and takes its name, the “Oppegach,” from it.  Above, the river, for some distance, passes through a deep and wild canon; and although an Indian trail follows it on the west side, it is rendered impassable for mules, by a point of projecting rock.  To avoid this, the pack trail which we followed turned up the mountain behind the bar, over which, and at a considerable height above the water, it afterwards ran.  This portion of the route was dangerous even now, and four of the animals fell over; two mules breaking their backs, and a dragoon-horse being so much injured that he was afterwards abandoned.  From this we descended to a considerable flat, known as “ Orleans bar,” crossing another branch of some size, the Ochetoh, 57. at the mouth of which there was another dam, similar to that already mentioned, and apparently in every respect its equal.  Formerly a ferry was kept here also, and several houses had been commenced.  Attached to one of them, a fine piece of ground had been broken up and planted, from which we obtained a few tomatoes, a very welcome addition to our supper.  The miners had, however, all left, either in consequence of difficulty with the Indians, or attracted by the reports from Shaste and Scott’s valleys above.  There were, in fact, at the time of our passing, but few on the lower Klamath; for although a good average could be made almost anywhere, it is always the case, that discoveries of a large amount at any particular point will drain the whole neighboring country.  So far as we could learn, the bars on the entire course of the river, from the forks of Trinity up, will yield from five to eight dollars per day.  A few spots produce more, but as these are of comparatively limited extent, and soon exhausted, the mining in this part of the gold region may be considered as simply a matter of high wages for hard work; a much more desirable state of things, where it is permanent, than the occasional “finds” of other placers.

          We were here visited by a number of Indians from the neighboring villages, of

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which there are several on both sides of the river; the principal of which is the

Techai-noi, 58. or Skeina, as commonly pronounced, also represented at the late council.  Our camp was pitched opposite the ferry, the distance travelled being about twelve miles.  Owing to the accident befalling the mules, the train did not arrive till late in the afternoon.  

          Saturday, Oct 11^th. – The march recommenced with the ascent of another mountain; the trail keeping along the ridge, at some distance from the river, and then down rolling hills to a small plat, about a mile above the entrance of Salmon river, a distance of about seven miles.  Here we encamped, as it was the intention of the Agent to hold a council with the Indians of this neighborhood also.

          Salmon river , or as it is called by the Indians, the “Quoratem,” 59. is the largest of the affluents of the Klamath, with the exception of the Trinity; and its general course is nearly parallel with that of the latter.  It has two principal branches, which unite about fifteen miles from its mouth, the northernmost heading in the mountains, near Scott’s river, the southern on the Trinity range.  On both of these, mining operations have been extensively carried on, and they still continue productive.  Trading posts are established at the forks, and at “Bestville,” a mining village of some fifteen houses on the north fork, established by a trader of that name.  Pack trails lead hence up both these streams to the head of Scott’s river and the north fork of Trinity.  The price of freight from the coast towns to these diggings, has at times been as high as two dollars a pound!  The whole course of the Salmon is destitute of valleys, and some of the severest trails and sufferings which the miners have undergone, have been during their winter journeys through the high and broken mountain ranges which border it; many persons and whole trains of mules having perished in the snow.

          The scenery at the mouth of the Salmon is exceedingly wild and picturesque.  In the forks a high conical point of rock stands up, evidently once connected with the western bank of the Klamath, but which, broken off from the rest of the range by some convulsion, has now given passage to the river between; the strata of slate dipping abruptly to the south and west, showing the subsidence in that direction.  Upon the Klamath, both above and below the junction, are Indian villages of some size, prettily situated on high platforms of rock projecting over the water, and shaded by groves of oaks and bay trees; while below, the river, compressed in its channel, rushes boiling over rapids.  The accompanying sketches were taken, one from near out camp, representing the Tish-rawa village, and the Klamath, below the entrance of the Salmon; the other from a mile higher up, showing the course of the Klamath through the mountains above the forks.  The tree on the right hand of the latter represents one of the signal or “telegraph” trees of the Klamath Indians.  These, which are among the most conspicuous features of the scenery upon the river, occur near every village.  They are always selected upon the edge of some hill, visible to a considerable  

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distance in either direction.  Two trees, one trimmed in the form of a cross, the other with merely a tuft on the top, represent each lodge; and in time of danger or of death, a fire kindled beneath them, informs the neighboring tribes of the necessity or misfortune of its occupants. 60.  

          Sunday, Oct 12^th. – WE remained in camp for the purpose of treating with the rest of the bands belonging to this division of the Klamath.  They do not seem to have any generic appellation for themselves, but apply the terms “Kahruk,” up and “Youruk,” down, to all who live above or below themselves, without discrimination, in the same manner that the others do “Peh-tsik,” and “Poh-lik.” 61.  The name Quoratem, that of one of the bands on the Salmon river , and frequently used for the river itself, appears to be a suitable one to designate the dialect of the middle section and those speaking it.  The language extends on the Klamath from Bluff creek to a considerable distance above here; according to some reports, to the Eenah-met, or Clear creek, between thirty and forty miles further up, and on the Salmon to the principal forks.  Higher on the main river, the prevailing language is the Shaste, and on the Salmon is said to be one of those used on the Trinity.

          It was proposed to bring the whole of these into the reserve on the Trinity; leaving the Shaste, upper Klamath, and upper Trinity Indians, to fall within that intended to be established above; and a treaty, supplemented to that at Durkee’s ferry, was accordingly concluded on that basis.  Four bands, the Sche-woh, Oppe-yoh, Eh-qua-nek, and Eh-nek, were present, numbering in all probably 250 souls.  The total number of the Quoratems may perhaps be set down at 600 or 700. 62.  They are very much scattered, some of their villages having been burnt.  On the Salmon river , for instance, there are said to be now not more than fifty below the forks.  No difference, except in language, is noticeable between these and the lower Indians; and intermarriages frequently take place among them.  

          Monday, Oct. 13^th. – To-day our route lay along the bank, occasionally crossing small bottoms, for about six miles.  Here the river made a large bend, to avoid which the rail passed over the mountain.  Another, also much travelled by packers, crosses the Klamath about a mile beyond, and follows the east bank for sixteen or eighteen miles, when it recrosses and joins that on the west side.  Continuing on, over high spurs, we descended again to the river, and found camp after a march of twelve miles.  A portion of the road was dangerous, and one mule rolled down with his pack, but was recovered.

          Tuesday, Oct. 14^th. – The trail followed the same general southerly course as yesterday, gradually diverging from the river, which, five or six miles from camp, makes another bend to the eastward.  Here we again ascended, passing over high

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mountain spurs, much of the route being rough and broken.  Eight or ten miles from camp, a trail known as the “Serra-goin-trail,” now no longer used, comes in.  It leaves the Klamath at a village of that name, a considerable distance below the mouth of the Trinity.  A long descent brought us again to the river, which made a sharp turn round a spur from the other side.  A considerable branch entered here on the west, which we crossed.  The trail was excessively bad, running along the edge of the river, in short abrupt pitches, and over broken rocks.  A fatigue party had been sent out in the morning to work the more dangerous places; but we were notwithstanding detained at one of these, known as the “Tent Rock,” for an hour and a half.  At low stages of the river, however, as we afterwards learned, this can be passed through the water.  From here we rode through scrub-oak thickets and low woods for two or three miles, and encamped on the river, the distance travelled being about fourteen miles.  Much of the route was the worst we had passed over.  We found very poor grass on the river bench where we halted, and the animals began to suffer, the feed having generally been poor since the start.  The small benches, which occur at intervals on the river, are, for the most part, sterile, and being camps of necessity to the various pack trains, are easily exhausted.  The mountains also bear evidence of a poorer soil in the diminished luxuriance of the forest, and the absence of those prairies which form so marked a feature south of the Trinity.  The woods are much more open, and a variety of timber; firs and pines being intermixed with various species of oak, the willow-leaved chestnut, the bay, and the madronia.  Of the oaks there is a great variety; several of hem evergreens, including the chestnut and live-oaks.  The acorns, bay-nuts, and pinones, or nuts of the edible pine, all contribute to the subsistence of the Indians, who use them in various forms, roasted whole, or pounded into flour, and made into bread or porridge.  Piles of the husks are to be seen round every lodge.  We passed several small villages during the march, the inhabitants of which were of the poorer class, and appeared sickly.  They complained too of hunger, though they had the usual store of acorns, and side that they were too weak to obtain fish or game.  The principal complaint seemed to be a disease of the lungs.  Blindness or sore eyes was universal among the aged, as in fact in almost every tribe we have visited.  It struck me that there was a general aspect of decay among the Indians of this part of the Klamath, and we saw remains of numerous ruined lodges.  These, however, are not of themselves conclusive evidence; as, although their habitations are generally permanent, they are accustomed to remove from a site where much sickness has occurred. 63.  Notwithstanding their poverty, they had the usual complement of wolfish-looking dogs, which came out of the lodges to look at us and went silently back.  These fellows do not make much noise at any time, beyond a complaining yelp when kicked, unless they are engaged in one of their customary battles.  Their voice, when they do bark, resembles that of the coyote.  Their color is usually black and white, or brown and white.  They have bushy tails and sharp noses, and in fighting,

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snap viciously, much after the manner of the wolf.  The Indians, we were told, used them in hunting to drive deer to their snares, but I saw no instance of their being employed in this or any other way.  They are most arrant and expert thieves, and it is said, carry their plunder to the lodge; a statement probably true only as regards what is not eatable.  One peculiarity which they exhibit is inquisitiveness.  They will follow and watch strangers with no other apparent motive than curiosity.  I was often much amused at the expostulations of the squaws with the dogs, who were usually in the way or in worse mischief, and paid but momentary attention either to the cuffs they received, or to the exclamations of “chishe, chishe,” by which they were accompanied.  For the rest, they usually wear an expression of misanthropy and disgust at the world, which, as they are always half starved, is by no means singular.  Unfortunately salmon blood does not kill them, as it does dogs of a more generous breed.  The Indians, it may be remarked, do not appear to confer proper names on animals. 64.

          Wednesday, Oct. 16^th. – The trail, for the first two miles, followed the river bank upon a steep slope, and sometimes at a considerable height.  It being very narrow, there is some danger of sliding off.  Here we lost a mule carrying the whole kitchen furniture of our pack train; as he did not fall, but deliberately jumped into the water, it seemed probable that, disgusted with life, he had chosen the surest way of terminating his sufferings, and taking revenge on his persecutors.  Beyond, the river made another great bend to the eastward, the road again taking up the mountains.  This is, if not the highest, one of the most elevated points passed on the route.  Though steep, the ascent was pretty good; but the toil, added to poor food, began to tell upon the dragoon-horses, which were now every day in a worse plight.  Indeed, for American horses, even in better condition than ours were when we started from Sonoma, these trails are too severe; and the smaller and lighter Californian horses, or still better, mules, are the only fit animals.  We were two hours in an almost continuous ascent of the mountain, another, winding upon its summit; and a fourth, in rapid and steep descent to the river.  Here we encamped at the mouth of Clear creek, a stream some ten yards wide.  Good grass was found about half a mile down the river, on to which the horses were sent, the mules being driven across the creek.

          From the summit to-day we had a fine view of the mountains which everywhere surround us, the vastness of which appeared as we rose towards their level.  Heavy ranges lay between us and the coast, and divided us from the Salmon and Trinity; while to the north was seen the chain separating the waters of the Klamath and Rogue rivers.  In clear weather, “ Mount Shaste ” itself is visible.  Our march today was twelve miles.

          A few Indians, the remnant of a large band, that once lived on our camp-ground, and now were settled on the creek near by, came in.  65.  One of them, with great delight,  

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recognized a man in our party, and recalled himself to his recollection by signs.  He had buried the Indian’s child for him the year before, when sickness had prevented the father from doing it himself, and had hung beads over the grave.  He evinced, much gratitude, and a high sense of obligation for an Indian.  These Indians complained of hunger, and seemed really destitute.  As a temporary relief, by order of Colonel M’Kee, an ox was killed for them and the adjoining village.

          Thursday, Oct. 16^th. – Our departure was considerably delayed this morning, the mules having strayed in quest of grass.  The last of the train did not, in fact, leave till nearly noon .  Crossing the creek, we ascended a steep hill of some height; coming down to the river again about a mile above, at a place called “Wingate’s bar,” where we found a trading-house, and a party of miners.  From this up, the number at work was greater.  The amount made we presumed to be about half an ounce.  Board was charged at twenty dollars per week.  A little further on is another bar, known as the “Big Oak Flat,” from a superb live-oak tree growing upon it, beyond which we again ascended, keeping along the brow of the mountain, on a very precarious path, and rising to the height of over a thousand feet from the river.  A steep descent brought us to a deep hollow, only to climb another hill equally trying; and, after about four hours and a half of travel, we encamped, having made only eight miles.  The animals were much exhausted, and a dragoon-horse and pack-mule were abandoned.  Our camp was upon a level bottom, about a mile and a half long, and elevated fifteen or twenty feet above the river; sandy, but with better grass than we had met since leaving the ferry.  Opposite us, a large creek entered, upon which there was also some level land.

          During the marches of yesterday and to-day, we noticed, for the first time, a number of sugar-pines.  This tree, which grows only on the mountains, resembles generally he large-coned pine, except that  its bark is smoother.  The cones are almost equally large, and the leave long and coarse.  The sugar is found exuding, in rough hard lumps, from the interior, but only where the tree had been partially burned, and is said not to follow the axe; though this may perhaps be questioned.  Its color is an opaque white, its taste agreeable, partaking very slightly of a resinous flavor, and it is often used by mountaineers to sweeten their coffee.  It is a very active purgative when dissolved in cold water, and much medicinal virtue is ascribed to it.  The sugar found nearest the bark is of a darker color, and more vitreous in appearance, and is reputed to posses these properties in a greater degree than that taken from towards the heart.  Some that was found had a peculiar sub-acid taste.  While adhering to the tree, we were told, it withstands the changes of the weather; but after being separated from it, rapidly absorbs moisture, and falls to pieces.  In some parts of the mountains, where the trees are numerous, a man can gather as much as five pounds a day.  The pinon,

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or nut of this species, is considered better even than that of the nut-pine.  The tree produces pitch, in addition, as abundantly as other kinds.

          Friday, Oct. 17^th. – After our arrival in camp yesterday, it was found that a mule carrying bedding had strayed into the woods; and to-day it was arranged that Major Wessells with the command should move on, while the Agent’s party waited to seek for it.  Mr. Kelsey and Colonel Sarshel Woods were at the same time sent forward to Scott’s valley to call in the Indians.  The mule was found by the miners at Wingate’s bar, and in the course of the day was brought in.  Two gentlemen, Messrs. T. J. Roach and W. J. Stevens, came down to-day from “Murderer’s bar,” a short distance above, where they had been located for some time past. 66.  They, with others of their party, had prospected extensively in the neighborhood, and communicated much information respecting the country.  The creek opposite our camp, called by the Indians the Yoteh, we learned form them heads in the mountains between the north fork of Salmon and Scott’s river, and is of considerable length.  Mr. Roach and Mr. Charles M’Dermit had recently also ascended the “Batinio,” or Indian creek, a branch emptying from the west; two or three miles above, and heading in the Sis-kin mountains, between the Klamath and Rogue’s river.  From thence they crossed to the head of Canon creek, which runs into a larger stream, now called Illinois river .  Of this last there has been much dispute; some supposing it to be a distinct river, emptying into the Pacific near the Oregon line.  The better opinion, however, seems to be that it is a fork of Rogue’s river, which it enters ten or twelve miles from its mouth.  Upon it is a large and fertile valley.  The country upon Rogue’s river itself, is spoken of with great praise, by all who have seen it, as containing fine farming valleys.  The Indians of the Illinois valley are said to speak the language of this part of the Klamath (the Shaste), and not that of Rogue’s river. 67.  We were further informed that Joe, the head chief of the Rogue’s river Indians, the same with whom Major Kearney had his contest during the past summer, and who is now living in peace with the whites, at the ferry on the Oregon trail, claims the Shaste tribes as properly his subjects, although they yield him no allegiance.  Be this as it may, the fact of a pretty intimate connection between the Indians on the upper part of both rivers, is clear.  We heard of one custom prevailing in the Illinois valley, which is different from the practice here; that of burning he bodies of those killed in battle, instead of burying them, as they do in cases of natural death.

          Saturday, Oct. 18^th. – Our trail ran through oak thickets for a couple of miles, to “Happy camp,” as the station at Murderer’s bar is called.  Some seventy persons make this their head-quarters; a portion of them being, however, almost always absent, either in packing, or mining, and prospecting, at a distance.  They were, at this time, living in tents, but preparations were making to erect log-houses for the winter.

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            The amount averaged a day, was about six cents to the bucket of 20 to 25 lbs; but it has been much higher.  This, however, is considered a good paying rate.  The miners on this part of the Klamath have not only been led away by brilliant reports from other parts, but to some extent discouraged by the murders and robberies of the Indians, which have rendered mining in small parties dangerous.  The bar itself takes its name from the killing of three men, by the people living on the creek opposite our last night’s camp.  Lately, however, the greater part of the Indians have themselves disappeared, some of their ranches having been burnt by the whites, and it is supposed have moved either to the valleys above, or to that on the Illinois river.  Their number between Clear creek and the mouth of the Shaste, does not appear to have been great, and judging from the number and size of the ranches, is probably not now over 300 or 400.  On the creeks there are a few more, but not many at any distance from the Klamath, except in Scott’s and Shaste valleys.  Of the numbers above the mouth of the Shaste, and extending up to the foot of the Cascade range , we had no definite information.  The name of Shaste may perhaps be found applicable to the whole tribe extending from Clear creek up; as, with perhaps some trifling variation, the same language appears to prevail as in the valley of that name.

          The bottom at Murderer’s bar is one of the largest on the whole Klamath, being about two miles in length, and containing some little arable land.  Good pasturage can also be obtained on the hills around.  Indian creek, which has been already mentioned, enters the Klamath just above the station.

          Leaving here, we rode up the bottom for a couple of miles, and thence commenced an ascent over wooded hills to a high mountain, from the summit of which he had an extensive view.  “ Mount Shaste ” was, however, not visible, nor had the weather been clear enough at any time as yet, to permit us to see it.  The Klamath above Murderer’s bar runs through a deep canon, making a great bend to the south; its general course being here more westerly than southerly.  It was seen at times from the mountain, much contracted by its narrow channel; but above, it again widened out apparently to its full volume, at the junction of the Trinity.  So much of its water is in fact absorbed by the soil, or carried off by evaporation during its tortuous course, that it preserves a very uniform size, at least from the mouth of Scott’s river down.  A very steep descent from the mountain top brought us again to its banks, and we encamped where Major Wessells had stopped the night before, having made about nine miles.

          The pine, which till recently had formed no feature in the landscape, was now common; at least three distinct kinds being seen – the yellow or pitch-pine, the sugar-pine, and the big-cone.  The true nut-pine was not noticed.  Cedars of the large white-barked species, common in Oregon , were also frequent.  The leaves of the deciduous trees are fast falling, and the maple which mingled with the growth  

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in the damp bottoms had assumed a brilliant yellow; almost the only approach to the gorgeous autumnal hues of the Atlantic that here meets the eye of the traveler.

          Sunday, Oct. 29^th. – About a mile beyond our camp we crossed a large brook or creek, which was afterwards fixed upon as part of the boundary of the “reservation,” and as such is referred to in the treaty made at Scott’s valley.  We had no high points to pass to-day, the trail running along the river upon narrow benches.  It was, however, rugged, and broken by ledges of slate, a part of it being excessively bad.  About eight miles of travel brought us to what is known as the “Big Bottom,” a tract covering a few miles square, which  forms the nearest approach to a valley that we had seen upon the Klamath.  Here is the usual trail for packers bound to Scott’s and Shaste valleys, and a ferry or crossing to the eastern shore; the trail on the left bank being a dangerous one.  It is kept by Indians, who pass goods in canoes, the animals swimming.  Major Wessells had halted here the preceding night, expecting us to join him, and was to make but a short march beyond.  As it would, however, take some to cross the baggage, and there was fine grass in the bottom, we remained over.  The mules were left on the north bank for the night, and we camped on the other side.

          There were two Indian villages near this spot, but the lodges had been burnt by the whites.  Messrs. Kelsey and Woods had visited them, and invited them to the council to be held in Scott’s valley; but the men with a few exceptions had run off to the mountains on the approach of the command, leaving their families behind.  These people were in a great state of destitution.  Several of he early miners had been murdered in this neighborhood, and much property stolen, in revenge for which their successors had destroyed the lodges and killed some of the men.  Of late they had been more peaceably disposed, but were still regarded with suspicion, having in their possession a few stolen animals and fire-arms.  Those that we saw were evidently of the lowest caste, a little boy of nine or ten years of age being the solitary and remarkable exception.  His features were regular, and even beautiful.  These Indians keep up a constant intercourse with Rogue’s river, whither it is probable many of them have recently gone.  From many circumstances, it would appear that their place of residence, being the centre through which numerous trails led, has been a sort of common ground; the Alsatia of the neighboring country.  We found here a young Indian, who spoke a few words of the Oregon jargon, and through him were enable to communicate a little with the rest.  By his means I collected enough of the language to ascertain its similarity to the Shaste, and also a partial vocabulary of his own tongue, which I presume to be one of the Rogue’s river languages.  His proper home he could not be made to tell; for although intelligent enough generally, he became very stupid when questioned as to where he belonged. 68.

          The bottom here seemed to be from two to three miles in length, and about a mile

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wide; a portion o f it affording good pasture, but not apparently fit for agriculture.  Two creeks enter the Klamath here; one from the south-east, at our camp; the other from the north-east, a mile above.  It is along the latter that the Rogue’s river trail passes.  A miner who we found here informed us that he had crossed over by it to that stream.

          Monday, Oct. 30^th. – The morning broke with a heavy fog, which, however, cleared off about eight o’clock .  The sky of this region, it may be remarked, is, when unobscured, of a blue as pure and deep as that even of the Rocky Mountains .

          The trail during the day followed the river bank.  It was exceedingly rocky, and much obstructed with brushwood.  We made only about ten miles, passing the spot where the command had encamped about a mile and a half.  The grass was very poor, but we were informed that none could be found elsewhere, within the distance which we could drive.  In camping on the Klamath, it is necessary to seek the neighborhood of the brooks, especially at this season; as the water, never pure, is now offensive from the number of dead salmon. 69.  Fortunately springs and small streams are abundant, and of the finest quality.  We passed to-day only one Indian village, a small one, and that deserted, but saw a number of the people upon a hill beyond the river, and sent a messenger, who with some difficulty, brought them to a talk, and invited them to come in.  Large heaps of the shells of a species of Unio lay along the banks of the river, at different places.  These form a favorite article of food with the Indians, who boil them in baskets by means of hot stones.

          The approach of winter was now indicated by the appearance of numbers of duck in the river, and by flocks of the banded-tailed pigeon, on their way to the south. Except the omnipresent raven and fish crow, we have hitherto seen but few birds in this whole region; a bald eagle on the look-out for salmon, a blue heron starting with dissonant scream from his perch on a dead fir tree, a few hawks and jays, and now and then a sparrow, being all.

          The prevailing rock is not the white granite, resembling that of New Hampshire , which forms many of the highest peaks, particularly those at the head of the Salmon and Scott’s rivers.  The bed-rock of the Klamath is, however, still dark blue slate, containing veins and seams of quartz.  Of this the strata are everywhere displaced and broken up.  A coarse sandstone or conglomerate of volcanic formation occurs.  Without attempting to give any scientific description of this region, it may not be unimportant to mention that the blue slate is continuous along the whole route followed.  Talcose and mica slates and serpentine are likewise in place; the last in greatest abundance, and covering the greatest extent.  When gold is found in the original rock, it seems to be always in the quartz veins of the blue slate; and these are more abundantly interposed farther up, than in the lower district.  Thus the gold of the upper Klamath is much coarser than that found below the Salmon.  Where it

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exists on the soil, independent of the gravelly bars of the rivers, it is most frequently in a reddish earth, as in the dry diggings in Shaste valley, and elsewhere.  It is, however, impossible to account for the occurrence of large deposits in particular localities, while in others, seemingly as favorable, it is nearly or altogether absent.

          Tuesday, Oct. 21^st. – Passing over a point of mountain, we reached Scott’s river, abut a mile and a half from camp.  This, which, next to the Shaste, is the largest of the upper forks of the Klamath, is here about fifteen yards wide, running through a narrow mountain gap, and over a bed filled with large boulders.  Its sources are in the immediate neighborhood of the Trinity and the Salmon, and after their junction its general course is from south-west to north-east.  Like all other mountain streams, its volume of water fluctuates greatly with the season; the amount brought down in winter being very considerable, while in the summer and fall it is fordable almost everywhere.  It was formerly a well-known trapping ground of the Hudson ’s Bay Company, by whom it was called Beaver river .  Its present name was given it from that of a miner who first developed its mineral wealth.  Our trail now left the Klamath, and followed up this branch.  Scott’s river is the most thoroughly explored of all the gold-producing streams of northern California , and the extent of the works upon it is astonishing, even to those acquainted with the energy with which mining operations have been carried on.  Between the mouth an the upper end of Scott’s bar, three or four miles above, almost the whole river has been turned from its bed, and carried through canals, regularly built, with solid stone or log embankments, several feet in height and thickness.  Many of these are from 100 to 200 yards in length.  They were constructed by companies consisting usually of from ten to twenty persons; and we were informed, that at a court or convention of delegates, held in July to decide upon a contested claim, thirty-two companies were represented.  The number of persons at work in the dams at the time of our passing, was small, certainly not exceeding a hundred; most of the miners having, at least temporarily, abandoned them.  We made careful inquiries as to the productiveness of these enterprises, and were satisfied that, like most operations of the kind attempted elsewhere, they had been losing ones.  Although very considerable sums had in some cases been taken out by single companies, and the total amount must have been very great, the average daily earnings for the whole working time was comparatively inconsiderable.  It was variously estimated at from two to five dollars; the lowest being probably nearest the truth.  Those who remained were doing better than this, the different dams yielding to the present workers from five dollars to an ounce a day.  The gold was chiefly found in crevices of bed-rock, and was very coarse.  One piece was said to have weighed twelve, and another, found in the bank, fifteen pounds troy.  Besides the dams, other washings were carried on with success, and the ground in front of the town of “Scott’s bar” was literally riddled with what are called “coyote diggings.”

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          This mining town contains some fifty houses, and, when we passed, numbered perhaps 150 inhabitants.  Through the summer, however, the population had been far greater.  In September, 600 votes were polled in the two precincts of Scott’s bar and the mouth of the river; and even this was only a partial representation.  The packing from this place is chiefly carried on from Reading ’s springs, or, as it is now called, “Shaste city,” near Clear creek, in the Sacramento valley; the traders being, for the most part, their own packers.  The price of freight was at this time twenty-five cents a pound, and the time taken in the journey seven or eight days.  Flour was selling at thirty-five, and pork at fifty cents; but during the year they had been respectively as high as $1.50 and $2.25, and as low as twenty and twenty-five cents.  We saw here a fair supply of other commodities used by miners.  Fluctuations in the prices of  provisions, goods, and transportation, are constant at all these places; depending in some measure upon the state of the trails, as regards supply, and  upon the rush of buyers for the time being, as to demand.

          Leaving town, and following the right bank of the river for two or three miles, over a very broken trail, we again crossed and passed the high mountain on the left, to avoid a canon which extends from here to the valley.  The descent, though considerable, was gradual, and the trail good, in contrast with execrable path from our camp to its foot.  An hour and a half brought us to the top, and we then caught a glimpse of the valley of Scott’s river below us, with the mountains beyond, and the snowy peak of Shaste lying to the south0east, towering above all.  The view was a beautiful one, and not the less so, from its being the first for many a weary day’s travel, in which the habitations of civilized man seemed not out of place.  A rapid descent led us down to the plain, and to the log-house of a settler, and here we saw another unwonted sight, an ox-wagon laden with hay.  Again crossing the river, here rippling gently over a bed of sand and gravel, we reached Major Wessells’s camp, pitched about a mile beyond, on a small branch entering from the south, at about half past three in the afternoon, our march being about fifteen miles.

          Wednesday, Oct. 22d. – Thin ice formed in our buckets this morning, but the weather continued to be fine.  To-day we rode across the valley to a ranch on the eastern side, a distance of about eight miles, stopping on our way to ascend a hill from which we had a good view of a portion of it.

          Scott’s valley is, with the exception of Shaste, the largest either on the Klamath, or any of its tributaries, and is the only one in which any considerable quantity of good soil is to be found.  Its extreme length is, however, not more than twenty-five or thirty miles, and its width, at the northern end, from eight to ten, diminishing towards its head to a narrow strip.  Its total area does not much exceed one hundred square miles.  By far the greater part of this, even, is suited only to pasturage, being too dry and gravelly for cultivation.  Tracts of a better quality are nevertheless  

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found chiefly upon the river, and the two or three small branches which continue to flow during the dry season; these seem well suited to the growth of potatoes and other vegetables, as well as small grain.  The richest is in the neighborhood of old beaver-dams, and, by proper care, would become exceedingly productive.  Timber is abundant on the hills on the western or northern sides; consisting of pine, of a quality not inferior to that of the Atlantic States.  The slopes on the eastern side are covered with fine bunch-grass, affording excellent and most abundant pasturage.  Salmon ascend the river in large numbers, before the waters subside in the spring.  In the rainy season, travel in the valley is exceedingly difficult, and parts of it are even covered with water.  Eight or ten houses, mostly small log buildings, had been put up at the northern end, and preparations were making for ranching animals on a pretty extensive scale.  We found a good deal of hay mowed and stacked either for feeding at the corrals or transportation to Scott’s bar, whither it is carried on mules.  The price there was twenty-five cents a pound!  The bunch-grass becomes a natural hay without cutting, and retains all its nutritive qualities.  Animals, with any reasonable degree of work, will keep fat on it throughout the year.  A second growth always springs up after the commencement of the rainy season.  Wild clover abounds, also, in the valley.  But little snow is said to fall here, and that does not remain long.  

          Thursday, Oct, 23d. – Mr. Kelsey returned last evening from Shaste valley, whither he had gone to invite the Indians.  He found great difficulty in persuading them of the peaceful intentions of the expedition; as they had taken up the idea that the escort was a war party sent against them.  Some of them, however, accompanied him a part of the way to satisfy themselves, but still lingered behind.  Messengers sent to the neighboring lodges reported that eh men had gone to the mountains to hunt.  A few were finally collected, and the object of the Agent in visiting their country was explained to them through an Oregon Indian named “Swill,” who lived with the tribe, and spoke their language.  This man was afterwards dispatched with Mr. Abel, one of the interpreters, to make another effort to assemble the Shaste tribe, and Indian runners were sent to the Klamath and the upper lodges of Scott’s river.

          Several gentlemen from the neighborhood, among others, Major Theodore F. Rowe, Mr. Charles M’Dermit, Mr. Roach and Dr. M’Kinney, visited our camp to-day, and were requested to remain for the purpose of giving information and advice regarding arrangements with the Indians.  Col. M’Kee, further in view of the importance of rendering the treaty satisfactory to the miners and settlers, determined to invite them to be present from the different placers, either in person or by delegation, and notes to that effect were dispatched both to Shaste, Butte city, and Scott’s bar.

          It had become evident immediately on our arrival, that more serious obstacles would interpose to a pacific arrangement with the Indians of this district, than at either of

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those before visited.  On the one hand, the number of all the tribes intended to be included, was very large, being variously estimated at from four to six thousand; and their disposition was decidedly hostile to the whites, against whom they had several grounds of complaint; some of them more or less just.  The great influx of miners had crowded them from their fisheries and hunting-grounds, and the commencement of permanent settlements, threatened to abridge their movements still more.  Many of their villages had been burned and their people shot; generally, it is true, in retaliation for murders or robberies, but in some instances no doubt wantonly; the result in either case being the same in rendering their families destitute and stimulating their desire for revenge.  Animals stolen from others and sole to them had been seized, and not least, their women had been occasionally taken away.  On the other side, a number of whites had been killed; some under circumstances of atrocious barbarity.  Several whole trains had been plundered, reducing their owners to actual ruin; and a large amount of property stolen from time to time, in blankets, tools, provisions, and animals, upon which the miners depended for their subsistence.  The number of mules and horses, and the quantity of fire-arms in their possession furnished, to some extent, proofs of the Indian outrages.  To such a degree had the feeling of exasperation risen on the part of the whites, that they had determined on the setting in of winter to wage a war of extermination against the Indians on the upper Klamath and its tributaries generally.  Two or three men were not considered as sage anywhere; and as the mode in which mining is carried on here involved the scattering of detached parties or individuals through the hills, they conceived the only way of protecting themselves would be to extirpate or drive off the enemy altogether.  Such was the state of things when the Agent arrived.  Supposing, however, that a treaty of peace could be effected which the majority of the whites and Indians would respect, there was great danger that it might be broken by outlaws of one race or another, whose conduct was beyond control; and that as discrimination is out of the questions in such cases, a renewal of the strife would follow, with more violence than before.  Another very serious difficulty remained.  To fix upon a reserve, into which the Indians could be collected where they could be placed under the government of suitable officers; where game and fish would be abundant, and a sufficient tract of agricultural country could afford the means of civilization, and partial support, and where, at the same time, the interests of the whites would not tempt encroachment, seemed to be next to impossible. 70.  The removal of the Indians beyond the limits of the State was clearly so; for Oregon had its own savage population, and the introduction of others was not only beyond the authority of the Agent, but would have been resisted to the knife.  The Territory of Utah furnished no suitable home for them, or means of maintenance, and the intervening country embraced in Shaste county had already a larger number than the safety of the whites rendered desirable.  The only bodies of level land in their own country were known to be the valleys of Scott’s and Shaste rivers, and the amount  

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of arable soil in either of them was comparatively small; far less than would suffice for a considerable number of permanent white settlers.  A very considerable part of this was already taken up in claims, and to some extent improved.  Further, it was impossible to find any district whatever, in which gold did not exist, or where miners were not carrying on their occupation.  Under all these circumstances, the only possible method of accomplishing the proposed object seemed to be for the Agent to invite the concert of the citizens themselves, and after obtaining the best information in his power, and hearing the suggestions and objections offered, to adopt such a course in reference to the reservation, as, with the least inconvenience to the whites, should furnish a refuge for the Indians.  Into this it was proposed to collect them as speedily as possible, in order to prevent further collisions.

          Friday, Oct. 24^th. – Major Wessells having concluded to return from here by the way of Reading ’s springs and the Sacramento valley, started this morning; the reduced condition of his horses rendering it important to him to reach quarters before the rains set in; which, from the lateness of the season, might now be expected at any time.  The route was up the valley, and following a branch of the north fork over the mountains to Trinity river , thence down nearly to Weaver-town, crossing to the head of Clear creek, and down that stream to the springs.

          Mr. Kelsey and myself, accompanied by Colonel Woods and Mr. Marshall, left to examine the valley, following the branch on which the camp is situated to its head, and thence turning eastward towards the river.  About four miles up, we stopped to examine a quartz vein in the hills to the left, which a company had opened, and were preparing to work.  The quartz, which was quite solid, lay a few feet beneath the surface, under a bed of broken slate, dipping to the east under the hill.  The gold was visible only in particular specimens; but was said to pervade the whole mass.  No correct estimate could be formed of its productiveness, from the very imperfect trials made; but it was said to yield from five to forty cents to the pound of ore.  The rock where the metal is not seen by the eye is, nevertheless, often as valuable, and yields more uniformly than the other.  We found some good land in the little valley of a creek near by, which is about five miles long and from half a mile to a mile wide.  Crossing some low hills to the main valley, we followed the western side to the foot of a mountain, which afterwards was made one of the land-marks of the reserve, by the name of “Seino’s hill.”  This part of the valley is little more than a pine barren, the land being gravelly, and cut up with arroyas from the mountains.  Here Colonel Woods and Mr. Marshall left us, and continued up.  Six or eight miles above, they met a considerable creek, entering from the south-west, which they followed up.  This stream forked three miles above; and upon one of the branches they found a small prairies.  Both headed in the high granite peaks separating the Salmon from Scott’s river; Mr. Kelsey and myself struck across the valley to the main stream.  We had  

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hitherto been accompanied by an Indian runner, who was sent out with invitations to some of the more distant villages.  This man had kept our mules in a brisk trot during almost the whole distance, and he left us in the same long swinging walk which he had preserved from the first, apparently as fresh as when he started.

          In crossing the valley we found ourselves at first entangled in the sloughs made by old beaver-dams, of which there seemed to be no end.  Beyond these lay the main prairie, which afforded fine grazing; and here and there, in places upon the river, land well suited for cultivation,  but in tracts comparatively limited.  Considerable grass had here been cut and staked for the use of the ranches.  We followed the river down to camp, which we reached about dark.

          Sunday, Oct. 26^th. – Accompanied by Mr. Mulkey, one of our visitors, I rode to Shaste Butte city, a distance of about twenty-five miles from camp.  This, it should be mentioned, is not to be confounded with Shaste city, or Reading ’s springs, near the junction of Clear creek and the Sacramento .  Our route lay up narrow spurs of the valley, extending to the dividing ridge between the waters of the two streams, and crossing over descended by another.  The arroyas in these were dry, water occurring only here and there in them.  In both, but more particularly on the Shaste side, numbers of miners had been at work, and large quantities of earth were thrown up ready for washing when the rains should come on.  These were almost all “surface diggings;” the gold being found very near the top of the soil, and most abundantly in the “gulches,” or beds of small water-courses.  The earth was of a reddish color, and generally free from stones of any size; though small fragments of quartz were interposed throughout.  The hills here were well timbered; and I noticed another variety of pine, more nearly resembling the eastern white pine than those before seen.  To-day being Sunday, but few of the miners were at work in the diggings; most of them were either engaged in cleaning up, or gone into town.

          Shaste Butte city, as it is called, is a place of some 800 houses, built on two streets in the form of an L, and at this time numbered, including the immediate vicinity, about 1000 souls.  It has sprung into existence since May last, in consequence of the rich diggings discovered here.  It is situated, not on the river, but three or four miles from it, on a small creek, called by the Indians the Koostah, running into the Shaste from the west side some eight miles above its mouth.  The diggings here are not merely in the hills, but in the valley itself, immediately round the town, and the ground was literally rooted up for many acres in extent; - large heaps of dirt having been collected, in anticipation of a supply of water.  This is expected to yield ten cents a bucket on the average.  We found in the town a plentiful supply of provisions, and, in considerable variety; game being abundant, and beef, butter, and vegetables regularly supplied from Oregon .  The price of board was three dollars a day, without bed, and a dollar for horses or mules standing at hay in a yard.  The  

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restaurants were fitted up in approach to San Francisco style; and in the evenings, music invited the lovers of liquor and of monte.

          The next morning, accompanied by Mr. Moses Dusenbury, of Peoria, Illinois, whom I met here, I rode to the top of a range of hills about four miles distant, for the purpose of obtaining a view of the country.  The prospect here was every extensive, commanding the northern and eastern orations of the plain, and extending south-easterly, to Mount Shaste , which was distant about thirty miles.  In this direction, however, it was intercepted by the range of hills which break the level of the valley.  Mount Shaste, or, as it is usually called, the “Shaste Butte,” is not situated upon any connected chain, but rises by itself near the connecting point of several; the head-waters of the Sacramento separating it from the great range bounding the western side of its valley, and from the peaks which form the source of the Trinity.  It is this mountain, and not Mount Pitt , as was supposed by Mr. Greenhow, which was designated as Mount Jackson by the sponsors of the “President’s Range;” and it is the same as the Rogers’ Peak of Smith.  By the Shaste Indians it is called Wy-e-kah.  Its height is stated to be 14,300 feet.  In form, it possesses singular beauty; far surpassing any of its Oregon sisters, and rising thus alone from the plain, is seen to the utmost advantage.  The crater stands out from its western side in the form of a truncated cone.  From the same point of view we could see Mount Pitt , or more property, Pitt mountain, so called from the traps formerly dug near it, by the Indians; and the noted land-marks of the Oregon trail , the “Pilot Knob,” on the Siskire range to the north, and the “Black or Little Butte,” to the south.  Pitt mountain is the same as Mount Madison , and apparently as Mount Simpson of other geographers.

          Shaste valley is of irregular shape, but its extent may be stated, in general terms, as thirty-five miles in length, by an average width of eight; though there are some points where It is much wider.  Ti extends from the foot of the Butte in a north-westerly direction, to the canon through which the river enters the Klamath.  That portion lying toward the mountain is occupied by fine forests, and is represented as sterile and rocky.  Through the centre runs a singular range of mounds or buttes, rising separately from the general level, and of every conceivable form and size; among which are said to be tracts covered with an alkaline deposit, similar to those found on the North Platte , and the Sweetwater.  The western side of the valley is an extensive plain, covered with a fine growth of bunch-grass, but barren, and destitute of water or wood.  The same remark applies both to the ranges of hills scattered through it, and to those on its sides.  The grass being at this time ripe, gave them, at a distance, exactly the appearance of ridges of blown sand.

          Shaste river, the highest considerable tributary of the Klamath, rises, not in the Butte , but considerably to the north of it, in the extensive plains beyond the low range bounding the valley to the east, through which it has found a way.  It has

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several branches, some of considerable length, but all losing themselves in the soil during the dry season.  The river itself, wandering through arid plains, becomes tepid and unfit for use.  Through the whole extent of the valley, we could not learn that any lands fit for agriculture existed, even did its climate permit; for at this great elevation frost occurs during almost every month of the year.  As a pasturing district, the want of water is the only drawback; for although snow falls occasionally in the winter, it does not remain long.  Returning to town, we started in the afternoon on our return, and camped with some miners in the hills.

          Tuesday, Oct. 28^th. – On reaching camp, we found delegations from Shaste Butte city, and Scott’s bar, present, together with other citizens from different parts of the valley, amounting in all to forty or fifty.  But few Indians had as yet arrived, but towards evening the chiefs of the Shaste and Scott’s river tribes, with some of the head men, came in.  We learned from every quarter, that apprehensions existed that the object of assembling them was to kill the whole together; and this fear had prevented the chief of the Klamaths from coming.  This man was the most important of all, from the number under his control, and his influence with the others.  He had sent his son, a young man of seventeen or eighteen, to observe what was passing.  A preliminary talk was held this evening, with those present, through the Indian “Swill.” 

          At night we had a very beautiful aurora, first visible towards the north-east, and nearly in the direction of the town.  It was of a rose color, and the light so brilliant that for some time we supposed Shaste Butte city to be on fire.

          Wednesday, Oct. 29^th. – Intelligence arrived of further depredations by the Pitt river Indians.  That tribe, inhabiting a country difficult to penetrate, has long been considered as the worst of those of northern California .  Their hostility to the whites has been unremitting; and their incursions being planned with great ingenuity and executed with daring and celerity, they have always been the terror of those pursuing the northern trails.  Lately they had extended them into the mining region of Shaste and the Klamath.  It has been supposed , and apparently with reason, that a number of white outlaws are connected with them, who furnish information and share the plunder.  Some weeks before our arrival, a party had started from the Shaste to retake a large band of animals recently driven off; and as no tidings were heard from them, it was believed that they had been killed.  Since then, several corrals, where mules and horses were ranched by the miners, had been robbed; and on one occasion forty were taken.  Horse and mule stealing, both by Indians and whites, is, in fact, the most common, and one of the most serious crimes of the mining region; and as men’s lives are constantly dependent upon their animals, the frequency of these occurrences creates great disquiet.

          Another conference with the Indians took place to-day, when the subject was fully

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entered into.  They professed a willingness to divide their country with the whites, and to receive the Trinity and Klamath tribes into the reserve.  They promised to desist from all hostilities, provided they were not molested in the first place.  It was found impossible, at present, to effect anything with the Trinity Indians, as their distance and wild habits would prevent access to them in season; but the son of the head Klamath chief, “Ishack.” Was dispatched after his father; first receiving the present of a blanket, and being provided with a safe conduct.  Until he should return the council was adjourned.

In regard to the location and limits of a reserve, no conclusion could be arrived at, on consultation with the citizens present; and it was seen that private interests would interfere with any selection.  Claimants, or squatters, had been rapidly occupying what tillable land existed in the country; and every mountain and stream seemed liable to the objection of producing gold.  On the other hand, it was most essential to the observance of a treaty, that, if possible, it should be rendered generally satisfactory.  All saw the justice of leaving to the Indians the means of support, and the opportunity of improving their condition; and all saw likewise the importance of secluding them, so that the occupations of the miners could be elsewhere pursued with safety; but there was no place known where the interests of some would not be affected. 71.  Suggestions were made of the small valleys upon the creeks emptying into the Klamath from the north; but these were clearly insufficient in extent, even if otherwise suitable; and an insurmountable obstacle presented itself in this locality.  The line between Oregon and California had never been run; nor was the position of any land-mark known with certainty; but it was very certain that the 42 (degree) parallel could not lie far enough north of the Klamath to afford the necessary country.  Under these circumstances, it was determined to make a further examination of Scott’s and Shaste valleys, and the intermediate country, although little more information could be hoped for than that previously collected; and Messrs. Charles M’Dermit and Alva Boles were chosen by the citizens to accompany Mr. Kelsey, Colonel Woods, and myself, for that purpose, detailed by Colonel M’Kee.  The time allowed us was, unfortunately, limited; but for this there was no remedy.

          Thursday, Oct. 30^th. – A hard rain fell during the night, and our departure was delayed until eleven o’clock , when it partially cleared off, but the day continued cloudy.

          We followed the west side of the valley up as far as Seino’s hill, and thence struck diagonally across it.  Its width was here contracted to five or six miles.  The soil on the river was good, and on the eastern side consisted of a light sandy loam, well adapted to potatoes and other roots.  Farther up, the valley became still narrower, the land continuing good, but much broken by slough formed by the beaver-dams.  This animal appears, since the discontinuance of trapping, to be again multiplying  

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throughout the country.  We crossed back and forth several times, and towards dark camped opposite the creek explored by Colonel Woods some days previous.  

          Friday, Oct. 31^st. – WE followed the course of the river for a couple of hours, the valley gradually becoming narrower and more broken and rocky.  At its head the two principal branches, generally designated as the North and South Forks, unite at the foot of a high peak.  The trail to Salmon river follow the latter; that to the Trinity, one part of the former.  On the south fork, about a mile and a half up, there is another quartz vein from which ore had been taken out.  We had no time to visit it, but a number of specimens were shown us.  The gold was not visible, and we did not learn the amount it yielded.  About the same distance farther on, washings also occur.  A trading shanty had been established at the forks, and we met several miners here.  No diggings, it may be mentioned, are carried on in the valley itself, nor any in the hills around, excepting those already mentioned, at the northern end.  It is, however, probable that in the high granite mountains lying between its head and the waters of Salmon river , gold will be found in numerous veins of the quartz, which appears to be abundant.

          As regards the principal object of our journey, the agricultural capacity of the valley, its total extent is about one hundred square miles; of which not more than fifteen, or at farthest twenty, are of good tillable land, and of this a full half lies towards  the

southern end.  A further portion might perhaps be rendered so by irrigation, but the only source from which water could be drawn would be the river.

          We took the north fork, which turns sharply round the base of the eastern range.  Between two and three miles above the junction, this again branches; the Trinity trail running up the right-had branch.  Our route lay up the left, on which there is a valley which we wished to examine.  The course of this is from the north, and it runs almost exactly parallel to the main river, but in an opposite direction.  The valley is nine or ten miles long, its width nowhere exceeding one.  The soil is barren, and we found water but in one or two pools, the stream sinking into the ground.  Grass was abundant, both in the bottom, and one the hills on either side.  There was but little wood, and that pine.  Reaching the head of the valley, we ascended the mountains to our right, and found ourselves at the top of a high ridge in turning to the northward and eastward; on the other side of which headed a corresponding branch, running into the lower end of the valley.  Before us, at a distance of about three miles, stood the “Sheep-rock,” a very remarkable point, which is visible for many miles around.  We had supposed this to be on the dividing ridge between the waters of Scott’s and Shaste rivers, but found it to lie within those of the former.  It is said to be one of only three places, where the big-horn, or mountain sheep, is at present found, west of the Sierra Nevada .  Another is a precipitous crag upon the Sacramento range, and the third, a mountain visible to the west of the Klamath, from some of the high  

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points of view on the trail, and situated probably on the source of Smith’s river.  To our great regret, we had no time to visit the rock and hunt them.  Turning to the right, we followed the crest of the ridge; ascending to one of the highest points of the mountains between the two valleys.  From here, a superb view opened of the great chains around us; the heads of the Sacramento, the Trinity, and the Salmon, extending from south-east to south-west, and there dividing the Klamath from the coast, and from the waters of Rogue’s river, on the west and north; while to the east, the Shaste peak loomed up, a slender horizontal cloud resting upon its summit.  To the north-east, a wide gap was visible, between the Cascade range of Oregon , and its continuation in the Sierra Nevada , through which the Klamath emerges from the lesser Klamath lake.  We had, however, but short time to spend in admiration, for the sun was near setting, and it was necessary to seek camp.  Seeing no hope of obtaining water, without descending into the canon on our left, we finally halted for the night, upon the top, under the cover of a clump of red cedars.  These trees, which from the size of their gnarled trunks, must have been of enormous age, were not more than from twelve to fifteen feet high, and bore evidence of their long conflicts with wind and snow.  From  the dead limbs around, we made a fire that gleamed for and wide over the mountains; and having, with much pains, leveled a spot large enough to lie upon without rolling down the side, tied up our mules, and went, not exactly to bed, but to sleep.  

          Saturday, Nov. 1^st. – We started at day-break, winding along the summit of the ridge in a north-easterly direction, enjoying the effects of a glorious sunrise upon the peak.  It was not until after ten o’clock that we found water, and then only a small hole.  It sufficed, however, for our own breakfast, and to refresh our thirsty mules, after nearly twenty-four hours’ abstinence.  This done, we pushed down the mountain, starting, as we rode along, troops of black-tailed deer, which, after a stare at the unusual intruders, bounded away into the woods.  About two o’clock we reached a narrow arm of the valley, where also we found a pool of water.  The soil here, as it had been, in fact, on the mountains we had passed over, had the strongest appearance of yielding gold; being strewed with small fragments of rotten quartz, slate, and volcanic rock.  The slate observed in place, on the summit, everywhere contained thin seams of quartz, and was often curled, as if by the action of fire.  No prospecting seems to have been attempted, probably on account of the absence of water.  We followed this ravine to the main valley, which we struck at a point about west of Shaste Butte, and thence kept down its western side.  Herds of antelopes sprang up from time to time before us, their sentinels alarmed by the clattering of our baggage mule, and scampered across the plain.  These animals are here abundant, and we saw as many as a hundred at once.  A couple of hours brought us to the main trail from Oregon , which we took.  As the sun sunk behind the western range, its rays lingered  

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on the “ Butte ,” gilding it summit, and turning he grey rock beneath to a burning crimson.  Fading away, the snow assumed that peculiar death-like hue which nothing else in inanimate nature resembles; and then the grey veil of dusk fell over all.  By dint of hard riding, or what to our tired mules was such, we reached the town of Shaste Butte city, an hour after dark.        

Two of our number were already familiar with every part of the valley, and although the time allotted to us did not permit us to do more than traverse the principal plain, we had a full view of its entire extent, and saw enough to satisfy us fully, that it nowhere contained a suitable tract for “a reserve.”  It is utterly destitute of wood, except in the pine-barrens at its south-eastern extremity; and of water, except in the main stream.  It affords none of the wild productions, such as acorns, berries, &c., from which the Indians derive so large a part of their subsistence, and its parched and barren soil would produce no substitute, by cultivation.  On reaching town, we found that Colonel M’Kee had that evening addressed a large public meeting of the citizens, on the subject of the treaty, and that they had, with great unanimity, appointed a committee, to enforce its observance, on the part of the whites, should one be effected.  

          Sunday, Nov. 2d. – The weather, fortunately, still continued fine.  We returned to camp by the trail usually travelled, a different one from our route on the previous occasion.  Like that, it pursued a long and narrow arm to a gap in the dividing ridge, and thence down another, leading to the ranch before mentioned, at the lower end of Scott’s valley.  Wagons pass up these ravines on either side, to the foot of the mountain, and the road could easily be made passable across.  A wagon road already exists from Oregon to Shaste Butte city, on which produce is brought in; and wagons also reach it from the great trail to the States; but none has, as yet, been cut to the Sacramento valley direct.  It is the opinion, however, of M. Kelsey and other experienced mountaineers, that a perfectly practicable route exists over the low range to the east of Shaste Butte.  The pack trail now travelled, runs to the west of that mountain, between it and the land-mark known as the “Black Butte.”      

          We reached camp some time after dark.  The distance from the town of Brown ’s ranch, by the route we took to-day, is usually called sixteen miles, and to our camp twenty-four or five.  

          Monday, Nov. 3d. – The day was spent in arranging the details of the treaty.  Our exploring party united in a report to the Agent, stating the result of the journey, and our belief that Scott’s valley would afford the only resource for the agricultural part of the reserve.  Colonel M’Kee, upon consideration, accordingly decided to set apart the lower, or northern end of the valley, for that purpose.  In determining the other limits, it was held important to embrace, in a compact a space as possible  

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tract which would afford sufficient hunting and fishing grounds for the expected population, and which should leave the most valuable mineral lands to the whites.  As regarded the first object, a portion of the Klamath was essential for the fishery, and the northern boundary was therefore extended across it to the Oregon line, which, it was supposed, could not be far distant.  As respect the latter, it was believed that, with the exception of the lower portion of Scott’s river, the most valuable diggings lay upon Humbug creek, and eastward, including the Shaste valley; and these were therefore avoided.  The earth already thrown up in the hills of Scott’s valley would be washed out in the course of the winter, and no loss would therefore ensue to the miners there, the first of June being fixed as the period of occupancy.  As to Scott’s bar, and the river from thence to the mouth, they would probably be exhausted in a year; but that no real ground of complaint should be left, two years were stipulated for working them.  The details of the “reserve” in other respects, will be seen from the accompanying map.

          Into this reservation it was proposed to collect all the tribes on the Klamath, Scott’s and Shaste rivers, speaking the Shaste tongue, and also those of the upper Trinity river .  A census of these was attempted, but the chiefs present were unable to proceed in arithmetic as far as the number of souls under them.  They, however, gave that of “grounds” or villages, as follows: --

                   On the Klamath, the O-de-ellah tribe, at 24 grounds

                   In Shaste valley, the Ika-ruck

                                                  Kose-tah, and

                                                  Ida-ka-riuke, at       19      “

                   In Scott’s valley, the Watsa-he-wa, and

                                                   E-ch, at                    7       “

Affording a total of fifty grounds or villages, averaging, as supposed, sixty souls each, or three thousand in all; in addition to which the Trinity Indians, it was calculated, would furnish another thousand, or perhaps fifteen hundred.

          The reserve, though the only one that could be made, taking into consideration the rights and necessities of the Indians, or course was unsatisfactory to some of the miners and settlers.  In fact, without sacrificing the former entirely, it was impossible to select a district which would not interfere with the interests of adventurers among the whites.  Those who had taken claims with a view to permanent residence, (which in general means a resident of one or two years, a long period in California,) and cultivation of the soil, and who had erected rude improvements thereon, naturally viewed the selection of the agent with feelings of particular disappointment.  Many of them had purchased preemptions  or claims from others at high prices, and no idea seemed to have been entertained that the land would not be open to settlement, and that the same rights would not be granted them, as had been given to the emigrants to Oregon .  At the same time a laudable spirit, of acquiescence in the necessity

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of the case was everywhere shown, and petitions for indemnity, setting forth strongly the unexpected hardships sustained, were confided to the Agent, for presentment to the Indian Department or to Congress; petitions, it may not be impertinent to add, which have strong claims on the consideration of the national legislature.  The Indians, though at first claiming the whole of the valley, appeared perfectly satisfied with the district allotted them, and expressed their desire to settle upon it at once.  The promise that they should be instructed in the arts of the whites especially pleased them.  A stipulation which was introduced, that they should deliver up all stolen animals, produced great disgust on the part of one chief whose reputation at home seemed to be a bad one; but he reconciled by the threat, on the part of his own people, of killing him on the spot, if he declined to fulfill it, and thus endanger the general arrangement.

          In regard to the number of reservations made in California , it is to be remembered  that, so far, at least, as this portion of the State is concerned, the circumstances both of country and population are widely different from those existing in the frontier States of the Mississippi valley.  No great neighboring hunting-grounds, covered with buffalo and other game, offer a place of removal of the Indians beyond interference with the whites, and without changing their mode of life, or affecting their means of subsistence; nor could they without horses or fire-arms obtain food there, did they exist.  Broken up into comparatively insignificant tribes, speaking distinct languages, and varying greatly in their habits and character, the collecting them together would be impracticable, even if natural obstacles did not interpose.  But the features of the country have a greater influence upon the savage than the civilized man.  The one conquers them – the other is moulded by them; and it would prove almost as impossible to reconcile the Indian of the mountain to prairie life, as to naturalize the bit-horn in a cattle pasture.  These people are not nomadic.  Even those without permanent habitations have at least permanent abiding places, or a country, and their attachment to localities is excessive.  They may indeed be driven off, but they cannot be persuaded to go voluntarily.  The singularly broken character of this whole region has tended more to render them distinct in every respect, by isolating them from all but very unfrequent, and then hostile, intercourse with on another, and this too prevents their being assembled in any one district; none existing which could contain them.  So far the Klamath country is concerned, moreover, the gold alone affords any attraction to the white man; and should this hereafter fail, it would soon be again abandoned to its former possessors.  The true policy of the government is to allow to our own citizens every facility, consistent with justice and humanity to the Indian, of reaping that harvest which they alone know how to use, and by the establishment of small military posts, to check collision or encroachments, which may endanger the safety of either.  As respects those mineral lands which lie within  

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The reservation, licenses to work them might hereafter be issued, subject only to such control as the principal object would render necessary.

          In the evening we were entertained with a grand peace-dance, by a party of about fifty.  Its main features resembled those of most other performances of the kind.  The majority contented themselves with performing the part of chorus, beating time with their feet to a monotonous chant.  Two young men were the principal actors, and kept up the exercise with great spirit.  Both were slightly built, but with forms of great perfection; clean-limbed, straight, and lithe.  Two ladies also joined in; one of them the new bride of our interpreter.  This dame had, according to custom, bewailed her virginity from the three nights past, and rivaled the coyotes in the melancholy variety of her howls.  She was an immense woman, but with a superb figure; and her competitor, unmarried, though not so tall, was almost as robust and as well built, according to the embonpoint order of symmetry.  One of the male dancers carried a sort of whistle in his mouth, on which he played, apparently much to his own satisfaction.  This was the only musical instrument that we noticed among them, except a species of flute, open at both ends, and with three finger-holes, out of which a Klamath Indian contrived to extort a noise.  In the morning, November 4^th, the treaty was explained carefully as drawn up, and the bounds of the reservation pointed out on a plat.  In the afternoon it was signed in the presence of a large concourse of whites and Indians, with great formality. 73.  The usual presents were then distributed, and they separated in very good humor, the Klamath chief, “Ishack,” and his son, remaining for the benefit of our escort home.  

          Thursday, Nov. 6^th. – It had been arranged that Mr. John M’Kee, Secretary to the Commission, should remain here for the purpose of seeing to the delivery of the property stolen by the Indians, and to exercise a temporary supervision over them.  Mr. Kelsey and Co. Woods also concluded to stay in the valley, and the balance of the party, now reduced to Col. M’Kee, Mr. Walter M’Donald, and myself, with three men, started about noon on our return.  We camped that night on Scott’s river, at the foot of the mountain.  The next day it rained slightly, but our mules being light we reached the crossing of the Klamath, at the Big Bottom.  In passing through Scott’s bar, we had an opportunity of seeing the rapidity with which downfall, as well as rise, can take place in this region.  The town was literally deserted, and upon the extensive dams on the river we did not see a dozen men at work.  All had left for Humbug creek or Shaste valley!  On the 8^th, we made Happy camp, the rain continuing, and the road excessively bad.  Here we remained over Sunday; and on the 10^th, the weather having cleared, travelled to the further side of the mountain, about three miles above our camp of October 14^th.  We had been recommended to cross the Klamath near this place, and to take the eastern side for a day’s journey, thereby avoiding the passing of “Tent rock” and the mountain beyond it.  We

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accordingly crossed the animals at an early hour on the 11^th, the Indians ferrying ourselves and our baggage.  The trail followed the river down for some distance, then diverging, crossed a high ridge, and again reached the water below the bend.  From there it again pursued the course of the river, not leaving it for any great distance, though at times ascending high up on its banks.  Although considerably shorter than the other route, and by no means so mountainous, it was excessively rough.  We however made a rapid drive, and towards sunset reached the lower crossing, a distance probably of sixteen miles.  The river, in places, was very winding, with narrow bottoms on the eastern side.  We passed several Indian villages, mostly of two or three houses only, and exhibiting every trace of poverty.  The sun at mid-day, notwithstanding the lateness of the season, was very warm, and the bay trees were everywhere coming into bloom.  A few butterflies were still visible, and some late flowering plants still retained their blossoms.  It should have been mentioned before, in connection with this part of the river, that in going up we noticed frequently near the trail, small piles of stone, generally consisting of three or four, placed upon one another; sometimes a dozen of them in a cluster.  Supposing them to have some particular object or signification, I made particular inquiry through the interpreter, and was assured to the contrary; that they were merely built by the Puys worshippers of Russian river.  The signal-trees, before spoken of, seem, however, to be the only monuments of the Klamath Indian, excepting their graves.

          Wednesday, Nov. 12^th. – We started in the morning to recross the river, and passed the baggage over in a canoe, but the mules proved troublesome, and on a second attempt, two of them, including my riding mule, got into a deep eddy, and were drowned.  This crossing is a bad one, the water being swift, with a strong counter current on the west side, and a rapid just below.  Our principal boatman was crippled in both legs, apparently by rheumatism, and walked only by the assistance of two sticks.  His wife was a hunchback, the second deformed Indian of either sex that I saw on the Klamath.  About a mile from the crossing we struck an old trail, and near by saw the carcase of my unlucky saddle-mule lodged upon a bar.  The accident had delayed us till late, and the mules were so much exhausted by their stay in the water, that we made but a short drive, camping at our old ground of a month before, near the mouth of the Salmon.  Several of our old acquaintances among the Indians visited us; and I succeeded in persuading a pretty girl, the chief’s daughter, to sit for her portrait.  The likeness was sufficiently good to be recognized, thou it certainly did not flatter the very gentle and pleasing expression of her face, or the plump graces of her figure.  The operation caused very considerable interest in the savage portion of the bystanders, who, one and all, pronounced it “schoyeh.”  We found the Indians of the village  

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which had been burnt down, rebuilding their houses for the winter.  The style was very substantial, the large poles requiring five or six men to lift.  These lodges, it may be mentioned, are usually dismantled in summer, when the inhabitants live in temporary bush huts, probably to get rid of vermin.  The salmon fishing was still going on; but the greater part of the fish exhibited an unhealthy appearance.

          A miner who joined us during part of our journey, and who had lived some time in this neighborhood, mixing much with Indians, described to us some of their customs.  The marriage ceremony is thus conducted.  The purchase of a wife is consummated by the payment of a certain quantity of “aliqua chick.”  After its delivery, however, the parties are not allowed to come together till the expiration of two days, during which the bride goes through the operation of the sweat-bath, the impatience of her lover being in the meanwhile moderated by confinement to a vegetable diet, such as acorn porridge and pinole bread.  The groom, moreover, must not club his hair after the usual fashion, but wears it loose, typical perhaps of his readiness to have it pulled, when occasion justifies.  The season of probation closes with a dance, and the woman is thenceforward entitled to have the tattooing on her face extended above the corners of her mouth.

          On the death of a person, the friends assemble, and raise a peculiar cry or wail, which is caught up from one to another, and can be heard to a great distance.  The body is always kept over one night, before interment.  If the deceased was one of any consideration, all the girls of the village unite in making baskets, to be placed round the grave; otherwise, one only is staked down at the head, and another at the foot.  The “chick,” or ready money, is placed in the owner’s grave, but the bow and quiver become the property of the nearest male relative.  Chiefs only receive the honors of a fence, surmounted with feathers, round the grave.

          Their medical practice consists chiefly of pow-wows over the patient.  One that my informant witnessed was held over a young girl, and was conducted, in the first place, by four maidens of her own age, relieved afterward by four old women.  These stood one at either shoulder and foot, and went through a series of violent gesticulations, throwing up the arms, and stamping with the feet until exhausted, when they sat down, and went on with them in that posture, keeping up, all the time, a low cry; sucking the supposed seat of pain till they raised blisters, and kneading the flesh of the patient, or rather victim. 75.  This performance was sustained until they frothed at the mouth, and sank down almost insensible; the sick person meantime subsiding into a sort of stupor, from fatigue and excitement.  Whether the result was what might have been expected, death, or not, the relator did not know.  The raising blisters by suction of the mouth seems to be a favorite and common piece of surgery among them, and we heard of whites who had submitted to it for the relief of headache, with advantage.  

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          Thursday, Nov. 13^th. – Colonel M’Kee and myself started from a little below camp, a canoe with three Indians, leaving the rest of the party to go on by the usual route.  The Klamath, for some distance below the mouth of the Salmon, runs through a canon, taking a bend to the eastward.  Rapids occurred at short distances, down which we shot swiftly, the Indians managing the canoe with singular dexterity, by means of a sort of half pole, half paddle.  At the most dangerous, or where the water was too shallow for our load to pass safely, they made up get out and walk.  Our fellows chattered and shouted in great glee at the excitement, yelling the friendly salutation of “Ai-ye-queh.” As they passed the different villages, and were apparently much elated at the praises bestowed on their skill.  The stoics of these woods are, in fact, anything but the impassive being that poetry has handed down as the sole type of the Indian; and so far from being tearless, they can cry as naturally as a woman at the death of a friend, or, it is said by those who have tried the experiment, blubber like a school-boy at the application of a switch, or the end of a lariat.

The high banks of the river above us were clothed with the mixed growth of oak and fir, characteristic of the Klamath country.  Huge masses of slate, broken up and inclining at every angle, here and there overhung us, while the stream was, throughout, confined between walls, on which the water-marks indicated the swelling height of the winter torrent, and the polished surfaces of the rocks, the terrific rapidity with which it speeds towards the ocean.  In some of these canons it is said to reach forty feet above the usual level.  An hour and a half brought us to our old camp of October 10^th.  We stopped to visit the several villages here, and starting again, entered the canon below Orleans bar; finding, to our regret, and, as we passed, nearly to our disaster, that the fish-dam at the mouth of Ocketoh creek had been washed away by a recent flood.  From here to Red-Cap’s bar, the river is again confined between precipices, and broken by rapids, and indeed, with few interruptions, such continued its character to the ferry at Mr. Durkee’s.  We were compelled frequently to get out and follow the bank as best we could, while our boatmen sped merrily down.  Nearing the Kaiammu fish-dam, we found that part of that also had been carried off.  We reached Durkee’s ferry about sunset, well pleased with the exchange from mule to canoe travel, and having accomplished about thirty miles by the course of the river.  It should be noticed, as illustrating the relations of these Indians with one another, that we had considerable difficulty in inducing one crew to descend the whole distance with us; and the we succeeded only by promising to set them right with the Weits-peks for trespassing on their waters, and to prevent their stipulated reward from being taxed for “right of way;” the international principle not being recognized by them, that nations occupying part of the waters of a river, are entitled to the enjoyment of the whole.

          We were detained at the ferry several days, a heavy rain occurring in the mean time, by which the river was raised with great rapidity to a height of about eight or ten  

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feet above the previous level.  The mountains between the Trinity and Salmon rivers were at the same time whitened with snow.  On the 19^th, we left Durkee’s and reached “French camp.”  The next night we stopped near our previous camp of September 25^th, having had rain all day; and the succeeding afternoon got to Union .  The latter part of the road, particularly that between Mad river and the town, was extremely bad, the deep black soil in the redwood timber becoming an unctuous and slipping paste in wet weather.  After two or three days spent in Union , for the purpose of disposing of the mule train, &c., the party having been broken up, we proceeded to Humboldt.  No opportunity, however, presented itself for leaving until the 8^th of December, when the steamer

“Sea-Gull” arrived on her way to Oregon; and as this might prove the last opportunity, we concluded to proceed in her as far, at least , as Port Orford, hoping to meet the “Columbia: on her way down.  In this we were disappointed; and were finally compelled to go on to the Columbia river .  An accident occurring in the machinery, we did not reach Portland till the 19^th; and on the 23d, left in the Columbia for San Francisco, where we arrived December 28^th, 1851; having been absent on the Expedition nearly five months. 76.

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