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Not enough fish in the sea
As ocean seafood populations plummet, catching is mostly unhindered
-- only Alaska is willing to self-police. Big business is starting to
lend a hand.
By Kenneth R. Weiss, Times Staff Writer
November 26, 2006
Fish counters in green rain slickers patrol a narrow
channel of glacier-fed river, keeping close tabs on the thousands of
salmon that migrate upstream to spawn.
Elsewhere along the coast, observation teams slosh through waterways
in waders, carrying rifles to ward off aggressive bears. Still others
monitor the migration from low-flying planes, or take inventory at
fish weirs and atop counting towers placed strategically throughout
the wilds of Alaska as part of an elaborate surveillance of returning
fish.
At the first hint of a decline in salmon numbers, the Alaska
Department of Fish and Game is quick to shut down coastal fishing
grounds and order fishermen to pull in their nets and lines.
State officials do this without protest from fishermen. Rather, they
work together, to protect not just a prized fish, but an economic
bonanza and a leading source of private-sector jobs in the state.
"We don't want to catch fish this year, but in future years
too," said Juneau fisherman Jev Shelton, who remembers when the
collapse of Alaska's salmon fisheries from overfishing was declared a
national disaster about 50 years ago.
Threatened with the loss of one of its top industries, Alaska began
limiting the number of boats and fishermen, restricting the size of
their catches, and giving fishermen a stake in the long-term viability
of salmon and other fish.
If only the rest of the world had learned from Alaska's response to
the crisis. Today, records show that 90% of the big fish — tuna, cod
and swordfish — are gone from the oceans. If the serial depletions
continue unabated, a group of scientists recently predicted, major
seafood stocks will collapse by 2048.
Alaska's policy shifts are still an exception. By and large, ocean
fishing, especially in international waters, remains a free-for-all
with too many boats chasing too few fish.
Only about 6% of the global fish catch is certified as
"sustainable," meaning that fish are not pulled from the
ocean faster than they can reproduce and are not caught in ways that
destroy other sea life or undersea habitat. Much of it comes from
Alaska.
Though other U.S. regions and nations have been reluctant to rein in
their fishing fleets, help has emerged from an unexpected quarter.
Wal-Mart Stores Inc. has pledged within three to five years to sell
nothing but wild-caught seafood that meets standards for
sustainability set out by the nonprofit Marine Stewardship Council.
Founded in 1997, the council grants a blue and white label to fish
that stand up to independent certification.
Wal-Mart's shift in policy has rippled through the global seafood
trade. The National Fisheries Institute, the seafood industry's
principal lobby, has become a booster of the sustainable seafood
movement after years of resistance.
McDonald's is now nudging its suppliers to come up with sustainably
caught fish for its Filet-O-Fish sandwiches, which consume 110 million
pounds of Alaskan pollack, New Zealand hoki and other whitefish from
around the globe.
Meanwhile, Darden Restaurants, the parent of Red Lobster, is taking
similar steps, as is the Compass Group, America's largest food-service
provider to corporate and university cafeterias.
In turn, commercial fisheries are seeking certification, for flounder
caught off Japan, herring in the North Sea, Chilean hake and albacore
off California.
"This is supply-chain pressure of the best kind," said
Rupert Howes, chief executive of the London-based Marine Stewardship
Council. "The Wal-Mart commitment is actually catalyzing
commitments from other retailers around the world. We have a major
Japanese retailer that wants to launch MSC-labeled products."
Yet there could be even more risks for precarious fish stocks as
megagrocers such as Wal-Mart enter the seafood market, creating
increased demand for the types of fish that the sustainable seafood
movement is trying to save.
"That's what fundamentally undermines the market-based
approach," said Daniel Pauly, a fisheries scientist at the
University of British Columbia. "You create more customers for
fish and invariably increase the pressure on the stocks."
Pauly and other critics believe it's too late for the market alone to
protect fish when the world's population is growing and two-thirds of
the world's commercial stocks are already being fished at or beyond
their capacity.
The only solution to overfishing, they say, is for governments to
muster the political will to restrict catches and take other measures
to slow the plunder of the sea's diminishing bounty.
Much is at stake. Overfishing jeopardizes the dietary
essentials of the billion people who rely on fish as their primary
source of nonvegetable protein, and it threatens the health of the
oceans themselves.
Fish and other marine animals help maintain the ocean's equilibrium by
eating algae and keeping microbes in check. Overfishing abets the
spread of these primitive organisms, which smother coral reefs and
create "dead zones" in coastal waters that starve most sea
life of oxygen.
Despite plummeting fish stocks, overfishing is accelerating around the
globe, encouraged in part by $30 billion in annual subsidies for
fishing boats, fuel and other assistance.
Asian and European nations provide the heftiest subsidies in efforts
to keep a beleaguered industry afloat.
Subsidies and government inaction undermine efforts to give a rest to
areas of the ocean so fish have a chance to replenish their
populations.
S. Robson "Rob" Walton, son of Wal-Mart founder Sam Walton,
was on a scuba-diving trip at Cocos Island off Costa Rica when one of
the nation's leading conservationists persuaded him to join the
sustainability movement.
Peter Seligmann, co-founder of Conservation International, had
arranged the dive trip. During previous outdoor adventures, a
friendship had evolved and with it $21 million in donations from the
Walton Family Foundation for Conservation International's ocean
programs.
After diving with schooling sharks and boating amid spinner dolphins,
Seligmann told Walton that even a billionaire's generosity wasn't
enough to prevent the impoverishment of the oceans.
"I was very clear with Rob," Seligmann said. "I said,
'I respect that you are dealing with philanthropy and your personal
interest. We need to have a discussion with Wal-Mart. It is important
for us to discuss with the world's largest retailer the issue of
supply chain and the impact it has positively and negatively on the
resources of the world.' "
Walton, who is a major Wal-Mart shareholder and chairman of its board
of directors, agreed to introduce Seligmann to Wal-Mart Chief
Executive H. Lee Scott Jr. A series of discussions led to a meeting in
February at corporate headquarters in Bentonville, Ark.
There, company officials announced to a gathering of conservationists
and seafood suppliers that Wal-Mart would switch to wild-caught
seafood certified by the Marine Stewardship Council.
It also pledged to push for improvements in the way farm-raised shrimp
and salmon, its two most popular items, are grown. Shrimp and salmon
farms often spread pollution and disease to surrounding waters and
contribute to the overfishing of wild fish, which are used to feed
farm-raised stocks.
"We are the largest seafood retailer in the U.S.," said
Peter Redmond, Wal-Mart's vice president for seafood and deli.
"We have a pretty large footprint in everything we do. We have
the kind of volume that could help a fishery make the move to
sustainability."
McDonald's recently began taking similar steps after collapsing
fisheries prompted it to look for ways to ensure a long-term supply
for its 30,000 restaurants in 119 countries.
"We have seen fisheries dry up," said Bob Langert,
McDonald's vice president for corporate social responsibility.
"We want to make sure that we take actions within our supply
chain to secure fish for the future. We want to have fish on our menu
10, 20 and 30 years from now."
Today, McDonald's has begun to shift away from rapidly dwindling
stocks of Russian pollack to more sustainable sources, including the
council-certified Alaskan pollack and New Zealand hoki.
Kellie McElhaney, a UC Berkeley business professor who studies
corporate social responsibility, said a reform movement often gained
stature when big companies decide to join.
"It ain't a church if you don't invite the sinners," she
said.
For reforms to last, she said, corporations must see them as part of a
business opportunity, such as gaining market share, customer loyalty
or securing long-term supplies — as is the case with McDonald's.
"Anytime I hear a CEO saying, 'I'm doing it because it's the
right thing to do,' I get nervous," McElhaney said. "It has
to be part of the business strategy, such as helping people want
Wal-Mart in their communities."
Today, the corporate sustainability movement affects
millions of meals every day. But more than two-thirds of the world's
seafood is consumed in China and other parts of Asia largely untouched
by the movement to save fish stocks.
"It's really exciting," said Jane Lubchenco, a marine
biologist at Oregon State University. "When Wal-Mart speaks,
people listen. But it remains to be seen what kind of leverage that
will bring on policy makers."
Success will come if these big buyers can change the political
climate, said Mike Sutton, director of the Monterey Bay Aquarium's
Center for the Future of the Oceans.
"The arm of the law is short, but commerce reaches
everywhere," Sutton said. "If we can change the politics of
fishing, it will make good management of fishing politically
feasible."
In the United States, the politics are dominated by eight federal
fishery management councils, quasi-governmental entities that were set
up in the 1970s to help expand the domestic fishing fleets and divvy
up the spoils.
The councils, which are controlled by fishing industry
representatives, are not inclined to reverse course and begin
shrinking the size of fleets to allow fish populations to recover.
Over the years, as fishermen struggled to stay in business amid
declining fish stocks, the councils have urged raising the limits on
allowable catches — even as government and university scientists
warned that such exploitation was like a farmer eating his seed corn.
In that environment, the cod fishery off New England collapsed, as
have some species of rockfish off California.
Although many scientists and two national commissions have spelled out
needed changes, little has occurred.
Still, the climate of permissiveness in the United States doesn't
compare with the free-for-all on the high seas or off the shores of
poor nations that sell fishing rights to foreign ships.
Occasionally, progress on the policy front has been made.
Disregarding industry objections, President Bush earlier this year
established the world's largest marine reserve around the northwest
Hawaiian Islands. Such reserves act as fish nurseries, and scientists
say a global network of them is needed to help depleted stocks rebound
along with the health of the oceans.
Scientists say governments also need to reduce fishing pressure around
the reserves. One way is to thin fleets by buying out boats and
licenses. Another is to allocate an overall catch limit among
fishermen and let them buy and sell shares, creating an economic
incentive for some to quit fishing.
Experts say lasting reform is impossible until fishermen, like those
in Alaska, are persuaded that short-term sacrifice ensures the
long-term health of fish stocks.
In Alaska, the culture of reform did not take hold until after years
of emergency closures of fishing grounds, idled boats, foreclosed
loans and bankruptcies. Some fishermen lost their livelihoods.
"If there are no rules, then fishermen end up their own
enemies," said Juneau's Jev Shelton, who is 64 and in his 46th
year as a commercial fisherman. "That's what happens when you
have unfettered access to a fishery. Human nature will bring
unfortunate results."
Alaska voters in 1972 changed the state constitution to "limit
entry" into any fishery for conservation purposes or to prevent
economic distress among fishermen. The state has since kept salmon
fleets from growing too large by restricting the number of permits.
Today, salmon catches are setting records — results that fishermen
attribute to a new ethic of restraint. Fishermen see that they share
the responsibility for the health of fish stocks, a dramatic shift
from the short-term frenzy to catch as much as possible by any means
necessary.
"We were all criminals at one point," said Scott McAllister,
a purse seiner who has fished Alaskan waters since 1971. "You
wouldn't turn in anybody, if they were your buddy or not.
"But now, it's self-policing."
McAllister, to his horror, recently realized he had
violated the rules. Misreading a notice, he fished in a newly closed
area.
"It was a honest mistake, but I couldn't live with myself,"
McAllister said. He turned himself in, forfeiting $12,000 worth of
fish to state authorities.
*
About this story
This is one in a series of Los Angeles Times articles on threats to
the world's oceans. To read the series "Altered Oceans" and
see a multimedia presentation, including photo galleries and video
reports, go to latimes.com/oceans.*
What you can do to help
Everyone, especially seafood eaters, can help support healthier oceans
by making even slight changes in what you buy and eat, and how you
live.
Ask questions
Ask questions when buying fish at a store or in a restaurant.
Where is it from? How is it caught? Customers' questions will force
markets to get the answers.
Get educated
Get educated about seafood choices. The Monterey Bay Aquarium and
other nonprofit groups offer helpful pocket guides to avoid overfished
species and destructive fishing practices. Websites for specifics: http://www.seafoodwatch.orgwww.blueocean.org/seafood
http://www.oceansalive.org
Shop for sustainability
Look for the blue and white label from the Marine Stewardship
Council for fish certified as sustainably caught.
Eat lower on the food chain
Eat more oysters, scallops, crabs and squid, and less swordfish,
grouper, tuna and shark. Shellfish and other species low on the food
chain reproduce much faster than slow-growing big fish.
Avoid buying seashells
Many of these animals are hunted for their shells, accelerating
their decline.
Support protected areas
Support the creation of marine protected areas. The ocean
equivalent of wildernesses, protected areas ban fishing and allow
depleted species to recover.
Target abundant species
If you go ocean fishing, target species that are abundant, and
avoid those that are overfished or poorly managed, even if it's legal
to catch them.
Hang on to fishing gear
Don't toss your fishing gear, including snarled lines. Discarded
line and other gear can trap birds, turtles and marine mammals and
cause them to drown.
Sources: Monterey Bay Aquarium; Seafood
Choices Alliance; "50 Ways to Save the Ocean" by David
Helvarg; Environmental Defense; Marine Stewardship Council
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NOTE: In accordance with Title 17 U.S.C. section 107, any copyrighted
material herein is distributed without profit or payment to
those who have
expressed a prior interest in receiving this information
for non-profit
research and educational purposes only. For more information go
to:
http://www.law.cornell.edu/uscode/17/107.shtml
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